Author: Darcey

When you have a cultural and culinary history as long as China’s, you’ll find that a lot of customs and dishes have legends behind them.

One of our favorites is the touching story of the Yunnan dish, guoqiao mixian (过桥米线) or the “Crossing the Bridge Noodles”:

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Long ago, just south of the Yunnan city of Mengzixian (蒙自县)….

There was beautiful lake with water as clear as jade. In the center of the lake, there was a small island covered in green bamboo saplings and giant trees whose ancient stalks reached the heavens.

Known for its natural beauty and pleasant atmosphere, the small island drew many neighboring scholars seeking a tranquil place to study for the imperial exams.

Among these scholars was a particularly diligent student who spent many days studying on the island.  Every day, his wife made the long walk to the lake, crossing the bridge to the island to bring him his midday meal.  However, he was frequently so engrossed in his studies that he only remembered to eat long after the food had grown cold.

Due to his irregular eating habits, the scholar became noticeably thin and his warmhearted wife grew very worried.  One day, she had an idea. She butchered a plump hen to make a hot chicken soup, and separately prepared her husband’s favorite local rice noodles, seasonings, and ingredients.

She brought them over the bridge in different bowls, combining them just before he was ready to eat. On it’s own, the chicken broth stayed hot enough to cook the noodles and other ingredients, and created a thin layer of oil that kept the whole bowl piping hot.

It worked. The scholar loved the hot noodle soup, and the wife started crossing the bridge everyday with these bowls.

Eventually, the scholar succeeded in passing the imperial exams and, remembering his wife’s great kindness and hospitality, joked that it was his wife’s wonderful noodles that helped him pass the prestigious and famously difficult exams.

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“As a result of their unwavering resolve, the husband became an imperial scholar and great honor and satisfaction was brought to the village.”

As you may have guessed, the wife’s daily walk across the bridge to deliver her husband’s meals inspired the name “Crossing the Bridge Noodles”. The story was passed on by word of mouth through the generations and has come to symbolize affection, endearment, and admiration

Like many legends of its kind, this story helps us understand the values and morals of traditional agricultural society in China. For example, the scholar is always described as diligent and hardworking—willing to embrace solitude and hardship in pursuit of good fortune and future.

The wife is considered virtuous and kindhearted for overcoming difficulty and heartache to care for her husband; her delivery of daily hot meals is used to express deep love and affection.

The story often ends with the line, “As a result of their unwavering resolve, the husband became an imperial scholar and great honor and satisfaction was brought to the village.”

Today, guoqiao mixian (过桥米线) is still considered a Yunnan specialty—and it still comes in separate bowls, allowing you to pick your ingredients and add the hot soup yourself. In Yunnan, this dish is so popular that there are restaurant chains that specialize exclusively in varieties of guoqiao mixian. It can be found anywhere from street-side noodle shops to high-end banquet-style restaurants.

If you’re heading down to Yunnan, this dish is definitely worth a try. Who knows, maybe it’ll be all the inspiration you need to finish that next project, or pass that next exam.

Or, if you’re feeling adventurous and want to try your hand at making this dish yourself, here’s a recipe worth trying from the Australian Gourmet Traveler.

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Interested in traveling to Yunnan? Check out our sample journey South of the Clouds to get some ideas. No time to fit Yunnan into your China itinerary? Send us an email at info@wildchina.com and we can recommend great Yunnan restaurants in Beijing and Shanghai.

 

The Peninsula name has always been equated with luxury and magnificence, and as the brand’s flagship location, the Peninsula Hong Kong is a cut above the rest.

 

The two-phase “landmark room enhancement programme,” commenced in 2012, aimed to transform all 297 of the hotel’s guestrooms.

New room designs offer simplicity and elegance:

The new room designs speak to “Classic Modernity”: tenets of simplicity and chic elegance built with the finest materials and craftsmanship available. Leather finishes and glossy wood detailing create an ambiance of comfort while setting off the room’s warm, neutral color palette (think cream and dark chocolate). Traditional Chinese ink painting served as inspiration for the artistic features – touches of tradition, reminders of the Peninsula Hong Kong’s proud 85-year history.

At the same time, the hotel looks to the future; this renovation has undoubtedly produced the world’s most technologically advanced guestrooms.

For your entertainment and enjoyment:

A 46” LED flat-screen TV, a iPod/iPad docking station, surround sound set-up, and noise canceling earphones (not to mention 90 Internet TV channels, 460 Internet radio stations, and a complimentary selection of HD movies). For effortless convenience: an all-in-one fax/printer/photocopier/scanner, a bank of international outlets, free long distance VOIP calls, and complimentary fibre-optic-cable-enhanced high-speed internet.

Really revolutionary, though, is what the upgraded technology allows in terms of personalization. LED touch wall panels allow visitors complete control of their room environments: temperature, lighting, curtains, privacy. The same options are available on the multiple portable tablets included in each room – but the tablets also offer access to restaurant menus, hotel services (including the Peninsula’s signature Rolls-Royce fleet!), the impressive new “PenCities” virtual city guide, live flight status updates, and more. The entire system is synchronized throughout the room and available in 5 languages: English, French, Japanese, and Traditional and Simplified Chinese.

The Peninsula Hong Kong has always been trusted to deliver on its promise of comfort in the midst of splendor, and with this most recent renovation, the hotel has exceeded all hopes and dreams. Take our word for it – or better yet, take our advice and experience the “Great Dame of the Far East” for yourself.

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All photos by the Peninsula Hong Kong.

Want to stay arrange a stay in the Peninsula? Email info@wildchina.com for more information!

What is more important – national security, or people’s right to be informed?

The screenplay, “Top Secret: The Battle for the Pentagon Papers”, further explores the themes of freedom of press, government secrets, and the role of the judiciary with its inside look at the Washington Post’s decision to publish a study labeled “top secret” that documents the history of the U.S. involvement in Vietnam. The following epic legal battle contended the public’s right to know against the government’s need for secrecy, eventually going on to arguably become one of the most important cases in Supreme Court history.

We had the chance to talk with Alison Friedman, founder of Ping Pong Productions, a company fashioned around the mission of promoting cultural diplomacy through the performing arts. As a longtime resident of Beijing, Alison has witnessed first-hand the changes in the Chinese mindset regarding censorship, especially amongst the younger generations.

According to Alison, the main reason the screenplay returned to the Middle Kingdom was because although there were some difficulties the first time around, the show was overall a huge success, receiving positive, but more importantly, engaged reactions.

 

When “Top Secret” came to China a little less than two years ago, they were playing mostly to student audiences in small venue. This time around, with more financial support, especially from the U.S. Embassy, the cast was able to perform in grand theaters in every city they visited, the highlight obviously being the National Center for the Performing Arts (NCPA) in Beijing, the most prestigious venue of its kind in China. Quick fun fact: LA Theater Works is the first American theater company to perform at the NCPA!

Another major difference is the audience – this time around, their viewers are much more mainstream, not simply theatre or journalism-focused spectators. In terms of the reactions that the screen play has received, there has been just as much enthusiasm because the issues discussed are both timeless and universal.

 “[It] is in essence, not simply about the story behind the publishing of the Pentagon Papers… but rather revealing the multi-facets of this complicated subject, forcing its viewers, Chinese and American alike, to raise questions about censorship and the public’s right to know.”

What interested Alison was the demographic of Chinese audiences compared to that of their American counterparts. The show’s popularity amongst younger audiences in China reflects the country’s vibrant theater-attending community, which avidly frequents both domestic and international performances. This highly contrasts the much older demographic (50+) of American audiences, most of whom attended the screenplay because they had lived through this period of U.S. history.

 

The organized interaction between the cast and the audience included coordinated discussions in every city, a master class in Suzhou, and a variety of theater workshops in Chongqing. What impressed Alison the most was the level of sophistication and the amount of nuance that the discussions reached. Rather than asking Margaret Colin about her favorite scene in the the popular drama, “Gossip Girl”, the participants were genuinely interested in the substance of the play, often asking the cast about their personal opinions regarding the characters they were playing.

“Top Secret: The Battle for the Pentagon Papers” is in essence, not simply about the story behind the publishing of the Pentagon Papers or being “pro-” one thing, or “anti-” another, but rather, revealing the multi-facets of this complicated subject, forcing its viewers, Chinese and American alike, to raise questions about censorship and the public’s right to know, both in terms of current and future issues.

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First and last photos by Matt Petit, third photo by John Vickery, second and fourth photos by Darren Richardson

 

This past weekend, we sat down with journalist and photographer Jojje Olsson to talk about a bit of Beijing’s heritage.

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In 2007, Jojje Olsson came to China. He’d just won a university competition, and his prize covered the flight. He planned to study Chinese in Beijing for one semester. He ended up staying for good.

It was a coincidence, he says, and it was another coincidence that led him to the path he walks now. While looking for housing in 2010, he visited almost 30 potential residences around Beijing before finding an apartment in Langjia hutong. Before, he hadn’t know much about hutongs (胡同) – Beijing’s traditional living quarters that date back to the 13^th century, comprised of narrow grey-bricked alleyways, slanting tile roofs, and square siheyuan courtyards – but after moving in, he became fascinated. “It has really, really cool surroundings, nice neighbors, nice environment… people living life in the street.”

He met Hou Lei, a Beijing native, back in 2007, and they have been close friends ever since. Hou Lei lived in a hutong when he was young, but his family was eventually forced to move out. Their hutong home was destroyed.

Curious, Jojje wanted to learn more. His research found surprisingly few accurate sources on the historical landmarks, but what he did uncover is nothing short of horrifying.

Of the 7000-8000 hutongs that originally existed in Beijing, about 90% have been destroyed. Even as late as the 1980’s, the winding lanes filled the city, but now, they only exist within the 2^nd Ring Road.

There, in the heart of Beijing, is where the land is worth the most. In a cruel twist of irony, it’s also where the residents are the poorest.

Many take advantage of that, razing the hutongs to build towering residential complexes and expensive restaurants. Those who are forced out are compensated very little – not nearly enough to find housing within the city. Instead, the families who have lived together for generations are scattered, typically outside the fifth or sixth ring roads, or out of Beijing altogether.

China’s tourism boom in recent years have also impacted the hutongs.

Before the 2008 Olympics, the city accelerated the destruction of hutongs to make room for the necessary sports venues and other infrastructure. Even today, there are plans to tear down the hutongs around the Drum Tower to make a large square capable of accommodating a larger tourist flow. Some of the hutongs being demolished are considered protected areas, and yet the violation fines are low and the regulations are not strictly enforced. Alternatively, the hutongs themselves are being turned into attractions, like Nanluoguxiang (南锣鼓巷). In these case, the structures are preserved; authenticity is not.

This is yet another complication: most hutongs lack modern amenities such as central heating, fast internet, and toilets. Truly authentic hutongs are not ideal living spaces by today’s standards. Jojje knows Beijing residents who consider the alleyways “slums” not worth protecting, and though surveys show that a significant majority of hutong residents wish to continue living there, most of the youth would rather move elsewhere. They don’t have the emotional attachments that the elderly do – the last generation who truly knows what it was like before.

After all, the hutongs are so much more than buildings; they’re communities, and they represent a community-based lifestyle that has existed for centuries.

“It’s more about the social fabric,” Jojje emphasizes again and again, “Neighbors who know each other, playing mah-jongg on the streets. It’s about the people and it’s about the atmosphere.”

And yet, if the buildings are destroyed, that culture, the atmosphere, and the people must go, as well.

 

Jojje and Hou know that there is no simple solution to this conundrum, but they do have a plan. They want to extensively document the remaining hutongs – selecting 8 to focus on – in photos and interviews, in a book, along with maps, histories, and other facts, to remedy the lack of information out there. They call their project “The last hutongs of Beijing,” and have set up a page on indiegogo for funding.  If they reach their goal of $3,000 by 11:59 PT on June 21^st, they will also create a website about the hutongs, including updates on each street’s demolition/reconstruction status – they’re being destroyed so rapidly that it’s hard to keep track.

 

That’s the goal, in the end, “to try to get people… not necessarily engaged in protecting the hutongs” – efforts to do so are scarce; perhaps that’s too much to ask for – “but enlightened.” Awareness is the first step, and hopefully dialogue will follow.

Jojje ­­recalls a relatable situation from his homeland, Sweden; many of the city’s old quarters were razed in the 1950’s during an extensive urban renewal project. “Back then, no one saw the value in protecting the old buildings, but then in the 80’s and 90’s, people were having big regrets, like why did we destroy our city? So I think it would be good if Beijing can learn a lesson from that.”

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If you would like to learn more or donate to “The last hutongs of Beijing,” visit their webpage here. Their fundraising campaign ends on June 21st!

For more literature on the destruction of the hutongs, Jojje recommends The Last Days of Old Beijing by Michael Meyer.

Interested in seeing the hutongs for yourself? Send us an email at info@wildchina.com!

All photos credited to Jojje Olsson.

Tibet is located in the heart of the Himalayas, and is one of the world’s most hidden and valuable treasures.

Traveling to Tibet can take you back in time to the Guge Kingdom’s ancient civilization, give you the chance to hike up the remote, arduous, and scenic black peaks of sacred Mt. Kailash and amble along the towering, fortress-like crisp white walls of the Potala Palace.

Northern Yunnan is also home to many Tibetans–some of whom have made the spectacular panoramas of Abujee their home.

Khunu, a yak wool clothing company that sources its material from Tibet, was founded on the combination of an audacious spirit, the appreciation for far off cultures, and the desire to develop functional and fashionable products of the highest quality while facilitating direct and equitable market access for isolated Tibetan villages.

The word “Khunu” represents the name given to the first true Mongolian dynasty a thousand years prior to the rise of the legendary Ghengis Khan in the 13th century. Vast, majestic scenery populated by a hardy people who respect and live in harmony with their environment embodies what this brand is about.

For us at AsiaTravel, Tibet is a must-see for any adventurous spirit.

Here are few ways to venture off the beaten path and delve into the spirit of Tibet:

1) Guge Kingdom –

For the history-loving explorer with the desire to go above and beyond the typical itinerary, AsiaTravel recommends an expedition to the remarkable Lost Kingdom of Tibet. This is an opportunity to see unforgettable sights that are as far away from coastal eastern China as you can get.

Immerse yourself in the far western area’s mysticism and beauty to unearth the hidden sites and artifacts of Tibet’s ancient civilization.

Walk in the shade of the pyramid-shaped Tholing Monastery and breathe in the crisp fresh air in front of an uninterrupted view of the Himalayan border stretching between India, Tibet, and Nepal. Head past Lake Mansarovar to the Ruins of the Guge Kingdom for a historic site steeped in mystery.

2) Abujee –

 

Meaning “delight” and “wonder”, the name Abujee perfectly embodies the beautifully serene, uncluttered landscape of this mountainous Tibetan region of northwestern Yunnan.

Known to few, the picturesque scenery of Abujee offers snow-capped mountains, lush forests, and deep, clear lakes. An area sacred to the nomadic Yi and Naxi ethnic minorities in the area, travelers to this remote region are treated to a private experience away from the prying eyes and jostling crowds of coastal China.

Make your way past sacred temples, mountainous terrain, nomadic settlements, and above the tree line towards breathtaking views.

3) Mt. Kailash –

 

Situated in a far western corner of one of the most remote plateaus in Asia, Mt. Kailash (at a height of at 6,638 meters/21,778 feet) is a striking peak in the Himalayan mountains of western Tibet.

It has long been a sacred pilgrimage destination for no fewer than four major religions: Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Bön.

The peak has a recognizable deep black tint and symmetrical diamond-like shape. With a surrounding landscape that is rugged and dry, Mt. Kailash overlaps the crystalline streams of several lakes, including the vast Lake Manasarovar.

Stop by isolated monasteries and take the time to savor the endless horizon and staggering snow-capped peaks. Camp out each night under the stars in the company of annual pious pilgrims who walk around the mountain for good fortune.

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Is your interest piqued? Send us an email at info@wildchina.com for more information on traveling to Tibet!

With just a two-an-a-half hour long car ride, you can travel back in time from modern Beijing to the days when emperors ruled China.

Step out into the crisp fresh-aired haven of ancient China’s Ming Dynasty. Walk up the Wall, making your way past lines of street vendors shouting out prices, all of them salesmen in the making.

Just one more step to the top.

Breathe in, breathe out.

Look up at the immense overlapping mountains and touch the vast clear sky with your fingertips as you imagine yourself standing on the top of the world.

The Great Wall at Mutianyu is a relaxing escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Besides its characteristic watchtowers, lush beautiful scenery, and rugged brick stone, this fully-restored and distinct section of the Wall is filled with fresh air and rich history.

The air is colder on the Wall due to high altitudes and exposure to the wind, so remember to pack some extra layers. Once you have explored all of the Wall’s picturesque views, embrace your inner adrenaline junkie and ride the toboggan down the mountain.

Now that’s a roller-coaster ride!

 

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To explore the Great Wall at it’s restored and unrestored sections, send us an email at info@wildchina.com!

 

In December of 2012, AsiaTravel announced a new philanthropic partnership with Teach for China.

We took on the sponsorship of second-year Teach for China fellow, David Li, who had spent the summer of 2012 working as an intern at the AsiaTravel offices. Now a year and a half into his tenure at Xiben Elementary School in Yunnan province, David has figured out the teaching methods that work best for him and his young students.

When we got in touch with David recently to see how he was doing, he sent us an enlightening breakdown of his day to give us a better idea of what he does out there.

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A Typical Tuesday Morning at Xiben Elementary School: Part One

7:00 AM- Wake up
As I wake up to the school bell, students are already in the hallways of the two teachers’ dormitories, sweeping and dusting. I live on the 3rd floor of a yellow building. To my left is Ben, an American fellow, and to my left is Minglong, a Chinese fellow. The three of us 2nd-year Fellows complete the Teach For China team here at Xiben Elementary.

As I walk to the school building, I see students carrying large bowls of eggs and cases of carton milk from the cafeteria to their respective classrooms–breakfast. The whole campus is noisy as those students lucky enough to not be on cleaning duty sit in their classrooms reciting their Chinese lessons.

7:30 AM- Teach First Class (3rd grade)
After getting all my teaching materials from the office I share with Ben, I walk down to the 3rd grade classroom.

As I enter, there is a flurry of activity. Some students are cleaning, some are eating their breakfast, some are reciting Chinese lessons or doing homework, and others still are playing. A number of students gather around as I fire up the newly installed whiteboard projectors, which many local teachers are still learning to use. Students are eagerly asking about what I’m doing and what we’re going to do during class.

When the bell rings to start class, I wait for everyone to be seated with all their materials out on their desks. We’ve practiced this routine so many times that the students are remarkably fast! A volunteer comes up to the front to introduce himself in English, and the class responds.

Class is conducted at a brisk pace as we review material we learned last week. When we move onto new material, students are flipping back and forth between their textbook and their English notebook, copying notes, but also simultaneously repeating words aloud. We first work with new sentences frames together as a class, then move onto partner work.

My forty-one 3rd graders are divided into eight groups so that I can award points to groups whose members raise their hands to participate and answer questions. The winning group from last week gets to pass out the plastic folders and whiteboard pens we use to answer questions. As I ask each question, students collaborate with their desk mates to come up with answer to write on their mini-whiteboard, raising it up when they have an answer.

I can be rather dramatic as I reveal the correct answer, and students cheer when they get the answer right. Having worked with the material as a class, then partners, I finally have everyone prepare their desks for a short quiz, just to see what how well the students learned today’s material. Students are silent and concentrated as the quiz is administered. I dismiss class after the quiz. If the class got fewer than 4 warnings in that period, I let them watch a short video during their break on the whiteboard, often of extreme sports highlights.

 

9:00 AM- Breakfast
While other teachers go to the cafeteria at 7:30am for rice noodles and eggs, I choose to wait until after my first period to have breakfast; I usually have oatmeal with a banana and a couple hard-boiled eggs.

9:30 AM- Morning Exercises
The bell rings and the whole school assembles out on the basketball court, where we do our morning exercise routine to music.

Unlike other schools, teachers here also perform the routine along with students, so I’ve learned it as well. Afterwards, students form lines as announcements are made by the principal and the local teacher on “duty” for this week.

10:00 AM- Nap
I usually like to take a nap before lunch to recharge for the afternoon…

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10AM sounds like the perfect time for a nap! Check back in April for the second half of a typical day in David’s life as a Teach for China fellow.

If you are also interested in supporting this great organization, take a look at our AsiaTravel Philanthropy page to make your own donation!

 

 

This morning when Beijing residents opened their windows, we were in for a real surprise. After days of 50 and 60 degree-weather (F), snow blanketed the city overnight. To celebrate the end of winter, here are some shots that the AsiaTravel team took while making our way into the office.

 

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If you’re interested in traveling to Beijing–even in the winter!–send us an email at info@wildchina.com. We’ll be happy to answer any of your questions.

 

 

Stories of pollution in China are all over the news. In the midst of this flurry of information, you probably have a lot of questions about what exactly it all means.

To start, what is the cause of all the pollution?

(Beijing on a clearer day and on a more polluted day)

Although car exhaust does contribute, the majority of the pollution arises from China’s heavy industry–in particular its steel production. Although the tools exist in these plants to limit their emissions, the issue is complicated by the conflict of private and public industry.  While it is difficult to say what steps China will be taking the future, it is definitely not an issue that has escaped the notice, or the ire, of the country’s population which is putting more pressure on the government to figure it all out.

For now though, you are probably wondering–what does this mean for me and my family when traveling to China?  Right off the bat, the best person to give you answers is your doctor. Not only do they know your individual medical history, but they are also trained health professionals who know the ins and outs of the possible effects of air pollution–the rest of us decided long ago that 5+ years of graduate school wasn’t in the cards.

All of China isn’t polluted all of the time.

If you are on a AsiaTravel adventure, chances are you won’t be spending your time where the pollution is at its worst: in China’s 2nd and 3rd-tiered cities (these are cities smaller than Beijing and Shanghai but larger than Shangri-La). The rural provinces such as Yunnan, Guangxi, and Guizhou all boast air clean enough to rival that of the Rockies. In the main cities, like Beijing and Shanghai, it’s true that we’ve had those rare, “crazy bad” days that attracted so much attention, but those are few and far between. Both Beijing and Shanghai have large communities of expats from all over the world who have yet to be turned away by bad air. In fact, most days, Beijing has the capacity to look like the picture below–which is #nofilter and completely unedited.

(Blue skies over the Forbidden City in Beijing)

If you’re planning a trip to China, feel free to contact us for the latest updates on the current environmental situation. We monitor both the current and projected pollution levels and can advise you accordingly. For clients who are interested, we can also provide face masks that cover the nose and mouth in case you hit a bad day during your time here–just let us know in advance so we can have them ready for you when you arrive. Traveling to new places always means new conditions we are not familiar with. We feel the most important thing on any journey is to be informed on your destination before you set out. Our hope is that this post has provided you with useful information.

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If you have any other questions about pollution or travel in China, feel free to send us an email at info@wildchina.com and we will be happy to assist you.

pollution comparison photo by BBC News, Forbidden City photo by Minnie Kim

 

This past week, The New York Times did a feature with travel expert Kurt Kutay. Kurt has made a name for himself in the travel world having worked both with the Adventure Travel Trade Association, and The International Ecotourism Society, in addition to currently serving as the president of the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association, CEO of Wildland Adventures, and director of the Travelers Conservation Trust. The focus of The New York Times article was Kurt answering questions posed to him by the baby boomer generation about travel today. Baby boomers, due to their numbers, have always had an outsized impact on the travel industry.

AsiaTravel’s name came up in the discussion when Kurt was asked the following questions by Mr. Mitenbuler of Chicago: “Are there people that want to visit remote locations in China? Do you think there is an awareness of ‘wild China,’and if so, is it a destination that will see increases in travelers?”

Mr. Mitenbuler was so close to the right answer! If he had just combined “wild” and “China” he would have had our name-sake and an organization deeply devoted to showing travelers the less traveled parts of China. As it was though, AsiaTravel was at the fore of Kurt’s mind when he responded due to his friendship with AsiaTravel founder Zhang Mei. Kurt reached out to Mei before answering the question and she replied that she feels there is indeed a growing number of people interested in exploring off the beaten path in China. Mei said that business men and women who have traveled to China’s major cities for work have acquired a curiosity to visit the more rural areas of the Middle Kingdom with their families.

Kurt noted several other examples of the burgeoning number of travelers interested in taking the road less traveled before closing his answer to the question with remarks from Mei that Tibet is quickly becoming one of the most popular destinations for travelers. So at this point it’s clear there are people who want to visit remote locations in China, the real question is, are you one?

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If you have questions about travel in China, feel free to send us an email at info@wildchina.com and we will be happy to assist you.

Photo of Kurt Kutay by The New York Times