While Helen of Troy was the face that launched a thousand ships, pu’er tea was the beverage that paved the ancient Tea Horse Road. Fifteen hundred years ago, pu’er was a humble tea that rarely left the confines of Yunnan. But, sometime around the 7th century, something changed.

The Origins of Pu’er

Some say that merchants first learned of the tea when the ancient Tibetan Kingdom of Tubo controlled much of what is now Yunnan. Others say it was the union of the Tang Dynasty’s Princess Wencheng and Tibetan King Songtsän Gampo that led to its introduction. One thing is certain: the leaves that were once being enjoyed only by the ethnic minority groups that tended to them had found their way into the cups of emperors in northern China and Tibetans on the Himalayan Plateau. Soon enough, the thirst for pu’er was so unquenchable that an entire network was developed to carry the leaves out of the province and over the mountains, trading bricks of tea for Tibetan warhorses, precious silver, and salt.

“Under a shade tree – tea mountain Pu’er, Yunnan, China” by BryonLippincott is licensed under CC BY-ND 2.0 

RELATED READING: The Top 5 Things You Need to Know about Pu’er Tea

The roots of pu’er can be found in southwestern Yunnan, near the subtropical Eden of Xishuangbanna. In the heart of the Tea Belt – an area that extends from Assam in India to northern Vietnam – the home of pu’er is no less than the crux of the species. Hidden high in the region’s misty mountains, ancient tea trees – some of which are over 1,200 years old – have been cultivated by hill minorities like the Dai and Aini for over a millennium. Using knowledge that has been passed down through generations, farmers trek through remote jungles to reach clandestine groves. There, they tend to both wild-growing and specifically planted trees before handpicking the large, soft leaves and beginning the painstaking production process which is closer to an art than a science.

Making a Mighty Brew

Named for the town that served as the collection and trading hub for the area’s tea mountains, pu’er has many related spellings (among them pu’er, pu-erh, pu erh, puerh, pu-er, pu er, and puer). Although the legendary tea is known by many names, there are just three criteria that must be met in order for a tea to be given the coveted title of pu’er. First, leaves must be picked from a broad-leaf tea tree (generally Camelia sinensis var. assamica, for all the tea connoisseurs out there). Second, like Champagne and its namesake region in France, production must occur in Yunnan. Finally, the leaves must be dried in the sun (not in an oven – that’s cheating). After being picked, the incredibly precise production process begins. Leaves are laid out to wilt for a few hours in the sun. Then, they are quickly fired in a wok over a gentle wood-burning fire to ‘kill the green’ (known as sha qing in Chinese) and stop oxidation. However, the farmers must watch the leaves carefully. Heating them too long takes away all moisture and kills the natural bacteria which are vital to the fermentation and aging of the pu’er. After the firing, leaves are rolled, shaped, and spread out to dry again in the Yunnan sunshine and initiate post-fermentation. It’s here in this last step where the magic alchemy of pu’er tea occurs.

 “Dry the tea” by Jeff Fuchs

RELATED READING: 4 Reasons to Visit Yunnan in Winter

The invention of pu’er as we know it today is something that can only be described as culinary magic, a result of happenstance and fluke conditions, which takes us back to the ancient trade network known as the Tea Horse Road. To accommodate the insatiable thirst for tea of Tibetans and the imperial class, caravans of merchants would compress the tea leaves into bricks, wrap them in bamboo, and then strap them to the backs of horses, mules, and other pack animals to make them easier to carry. Long distances and rough terrain meant that the tea could be traveling for months, or even years, before finally reaching its destination.

But, during the journey, something happened – the pu’er changed. In an act that can only be described as gastronomic serendipity, the tea’s exposure to sweat, the elements, and shifting climates not only changed its color from green to earthen teak, but the flavor became richer, smoother, and fruitier. Like a fine merlot, aging and a natural fermentation process while traveling caused the tea to evolve into something not only uniquely delicious but also medicinal and highly sought-after.

Pu’er Today

Over the years, the desire for pu’er mellowed somewhat, its drinkers largely confined to Yunnan. Until again, starting in the late 1990s, something happened. Investors from first-tier cities in China and then the rest of the world began streaming in. Tea that had once sold for pennies a kilo skyrocketed to hundreds of dollars by the mid-2000s. While the bubble burst temporarily in 2007 and sent prices plummeting, it is on the rise once more, with 350g discs aged 70 years ringing in at thousands of dollars, and there are no signs of stopping. Pu’er, once a humble tea of Yunnan, is again the Helen of Troy of tea.

“realchinatea (40 of 131).jpg” by mmoscosa is licensed under CC BY 2.0

RELATED READING: Peek into the Mind of Tea Horse Caravan Road Expert, Jeff Fuchs

In spite of the demand and the temptation to cut corners, Yunnan’s hill minorities carry on the tradition of pu’er set forth by their ancestors generations ago. Tending to the trees with the skill and dedication of a vigneron nurturing their vines, many farmers devote their whole lives to fashioning the perfect cup of tea.

To delve into the past and present of this precious commodity, contact us now to learn more about our upcoming journey back to pu’er’s roots with Jeff Fuchs and Traversing the Ancient Tea Horse Road. After hiking to the ancient tea tree forests, you’ll sit down with the descendants of the first tea cultivators for a pot of tea and a memory that is literally millennia in the making. We hope you’ll join us for a cup of tea.

The history of tea is almost as long as the history of China itself. Given that the Middle Kingdom is one of the oldest civilizations in the world, that is no small statement. In fact, although the oldest known written records of the country’s history date to the ancient Shang Dynasty in 1250 BC, Chinese legend has it that tea’s story began much earlier. Over a thousand years earlier.  

A Tale of Tea

The story goes that Emperor Shen Nong – a legendary leader and renowned herbalist – was relaxing beneath a tree in what is now Yunnan province back in 2737 BC. While a nearby servant boiled drinking water to help soothe the emperor’s throat, a breeze blew a few leaves off the tree under which Shen Nong rested and landed in the pot. Rather than waste the water, he decided to taste the accidental infusion and was surprised to discover the brew was both delicious and refreshing. Following that fateful day, tea remained a largely regional phenomenon, filling the cups of Yunnan’s ethnic minorities as a medicinal tonic, until the 7th century when the sprawling network of the ancient Tea Horse Road delivered the leaves to Beijing, Tibet, and beyond. What followed can only be described as a love affair with tea that has not just persisted throughout the years, but veritably saturated China’s culture. 

Tea and hospitality go hand in hand in China

By Benjamin Chodroff – Licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 

RELATED READING: Yunnan Food according to Mei Zhang

While tea holds the distinguished honor of China’s national beverage, it is so much more than a beloved drink. Upon your first step into a Chinese home, a cup of tea is immediately offered. Often, the cup is filled only seven-tenths of the way full – not to leave room for any desired additions, but to save space for the friendship and affection that fills the other three-tenths. Tea is also often used in other aspects of daily life like medicine and cooking. What’s more, there are entire cultural traditions, ceremonies, and customs built around tea. 

From how the water is boiled and poured (first over the teapot to warm it and then into the pot to brew), to the way in which the tea should be enjoyed (take in the aroma of the tea by sniffing the fragrant cup first before tasting), each step in the process is carefully choreographed. Even the specialized utensils necessary in traditional tea-drinking contributed to the stimulation of China’s famous porcelain industry. However, nowhere can you find tea traditions and rituals as rich (both culturally and nutritionally) as those found in the homes of Yunnan’s ethnic minorities, the original tea drinkers. 

The second (sweet) cup in a traditional Bai Minority ‘Three Cups of Tea’ ceremony

RELATED READING: The Hidden Gems of China’s ‘Dalifornia’

The Tea of Life

In Dali, the indigenous Bai people honor their guests with the symbolic Three Cups of Tea ceremony, known as san dao cha, the roots of which can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty and the Tea Horse Road. The ceremony calls on the drinker to first smell, then taste, and finally drink a variety of three unique teas and encourages guests to reflect upon the rollercoaster of life. 

The bitter-tasting initial cup, called lei xiang cha or ‘thundering tea’, represents the hardships one faces in life. First, tea leaves are baked in a clay pot over a gentle fire. Once the tea’s fragrance fills the air, boiling water is poured into the pot, creating violent and loud bubbles that give the tea its name. Once the bubbling stops, the tea – an aromatic and incredibly concentrated infusion – is ready to drink. 

The second tea, symbolizing the happiness that comes from conquering life’s challenges, is blissfully sweet. Almost soup-like, the local tea is brewed with walnuts, brown sugar, and a regional blend of other ingredients (such as orange zest or a cow’s milk cheese called rushan). 

The third and final tea, known as hui wei cha or ‘lingering tea’, is a complex mélange of tastes and ingredients. Bitter, sweet, and spicy all at once, the flavors of this cup create a powerful aftertaste that lingers on the drinker’s tongue long after the last sip and signifies both the bitter and sweet memories that one is left with. 

Tibetan Butter Tea

By xmascarol – Licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 

RELATED READING: Where You Should Go in Tibet

Tea at 14,800 Feet

Over the mountains and onto the Tibetan Plateau, the region’s ethnic Tibetans take tea drinking to a level that borders on obsession. Downing up to 40 cups of the stuff each day, it’s this infatuation that quite literally served as a building block for the Tea Horse Road. After discovering it during the Tang Dynasty, Tibetans realized that the nutritional benefits created during pu’er tea’s aging and fermentation eased the deficiencies caused by their high-fat, dairy-based diet and the stress of living at high altitudes in extreme weather conditions. And so, demand for the beverage skyrocketed. However, no ordinary tea will do. Instead, Tibetans enjoy a pu’er tea-based drink (some would argue soup) known as bod ja or butter tea. The tea is boiled for a least an hour before ultimately being churned together with a dollop of yak butter and a handful of salt and finished with a sprinkle of roasted barley flour known as tsampa. No visit to a Tibetan home is without an offering of butter tea. Etiquette dictates that your tea bowl is never empty, and so each sip is followed by pouring the concoction back to the brim. 

For China, tea is much more than a beverage or a way to unwind at the end of a long day. It is a way of life – a vessel with which to view the world and honor centuries of tradition. For travelers to the Middle Kingdom, there is no better way to understand the vast array of cultures and deep history than through the unifying lens of tea. 

Join us on our upcoming journey, Traversing the Ancient Tea Horse Road with Jeff Fuchs, and explore the roots of not just tea, but the ethnic minority groups that call Yunnan home – with a cup of Tibetan butter tea in hand.  

 

 

All photos by AsiaTravel traveler Mar Pages

 

Whether you want to experience enlightenment, see awe-inspiring landscapes, or explore one of the tallest mountain ranges in the world, visiting Tibet has everything you need to help you check off bucket-list items. It’s fabled and mysterious presence has been calling travelers for eons, yet in spite of this, many people either show up unprepared or put off visiting altogether because it may seem a bit too difficult.

Well, let’s set the record straight. Traveling to Tibet can be very easy. We’ve debunked some of the most common myths to show you just how easy it is to have a fantastic time on the roof of the world.

 

Myth #1: It’s very difficult to get there

In reality, getting to Tibet is no more difficult than traveling to any other destination in China that isn’t Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, or Xi’an. In other words, anywhere that isn’t serviced by a direct and speedy bullet train. Sure, there are more permits required for non-Chinese citizens to enter Tibet, but none of that actually becomes much of a problem. To get into Tibet, all foreign visitors must travel with an approved agency (just like us!). So, when you book with an agency, all the daunting Tibet travel permits will be taken care of for you. Getting a permit is therefore just as simple as telling your agency that you want to travel to Tibet and they’ll make sure you have all the paperwork necessary. For those of you who plan on traveling to Tibet from outside of China, you must enter Tibet from Mainland China first.

As far as physically getting to Tibet, the country is more accessible than most people tend to believe. There are plenty of flights from Beijing, Shanghai, and Xi’an. Plus, for adventurous travelers looking to take the scenic route, the Qinghai-Tibet railway (which was once considered impossible to build for years) now offers an absolutely stunning ride.

 

Myth #2: You must travel with a group

Despite the fact that most people do travel in groups to Tibet, this is not an actual requirement. The actual requirement is that tours must be arranged through an approved agency; however, it makes no difference if the agency is providing a private tour for one person or a group tour for 15.

As with any decision, there are pros and cons for each style of travel. But, at the end of the day, whether you choose to travel by yourself or with a larger group comes down to your personal taste and how you’d like to experience Tibet. Although group tours allow you to share the cost of a private tour guide and bus, while also providing a bit of camaraderie, a private tour affords you the ability to move at your own pace, leaves space for spontaneity, and grants a more intimate experience with your local guide. The choice is all yours.

 

Myth #3: You can rush through Tibet in a few days 

Many forget that altitude sickness affects people regardless of their physical fitness. (AsiaTravel employees included – some of the folks at Beijing HQ can tell you how they mistakenly thought it wouldn’t happen to them and were unpleasantly surprised.)

Generally speaking, you’ll need to give yourself at least a couple of days to adapt to the altitude and just relax. We’re serious about that last part – it’s not wise to push yourself physically during this period. While it is possible to do Lhasa in two full days, the Potala Palace has over 500 stairs to climb, so save this iconic destination for your second day. If you’re the type that doesn’t want to waste any time, make the most of your stay by leisurely exploring the Jokhang Temple or Norbulingka on the first day instead.

We recommend you take life at the speed of Tibetans. They’re laidback people who try to make a good time of everything they do, with an emphasis on good. Spending the first few days simply wandering and experiencing the local way of life is equally as important (or we might even argue more important) as visiting jaw-dropping sites.

On top of that, with so much to see and do, it’s quite difficult to make the most of your time in Tibet in just a few days. 

 

Myth #4: Lhasa is the only place worth going to

 Since the capital is the most well-known part of Tibet (apart from Everest Base Camp), and has a variety of notable must-sees, we often hear that Lhasa is the only place worth exploring. But think about your own country or state: is the capital the only destination worthy of a visit? Probably not.

Although it requires more paperwork if you want to travel outside of Lhasa, this is also something that your agency (hello again!) will take care of behind the scenes for you. Cities, lakes, villages, mountains: there is so much to see outside of Lhasa that is just as beautiful and worth your time as the Potala Place and the Jokhang Temple. 

How does camping beneath the stars on the banks of Manasarovar Lake sound? What about taking a bath in natural hot springs amid the barren landscape of Tirthapuri? From Tibet’s Holy Lakes, to Mount Kailash, to Tsedang – the birthplace of Tibetan civilization – there is so much to see throughout Tibet that even with the need for additional permits, exploring the depths of Tibet outside the capital is definitely a must-do on our bucket lists. 

However, it is incredibly important to note that it’s quite difficult to visit temples outside of Lhasa if they’re not included in your pre-established itinerary. So keep this in mind when planning your trip, as changing your mind to go somewhere new mid-trip may not be possible.

 

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Now that we’ve put those myths to rest once and for all, we hope your desire to travel to one of the most beautiful and spiritual places on the planet has been rekindled.

Believe us, it’s worth it.

 

Featured image by thriol via Flickr

 

Ruggedly wild, inherently spiritual, and filled with rich ethnic culture and untamed beauty, Tibet has called to adventurers for generations. But, they don’t call it the ‘roof of the world’ for nothing. With its remote location, extreme climate, and geographic environment, Tibet had been cut off from the world, inaccessible to all but the most intrepid explorers for centuries. For those that did want to make the journey, flying was generally the only option. However, due to air travel’s low capacity and high cost, tourism in this remote corner of China was, largely, prohibitive.

That is, until the Qinghai-Tibet Railway was constructed in 2006, transforming Tibet’s travel industry – and wanderlusters – forever.

 

They Said It Couldn’t Be Done

There was once a time when people believed that Tibet would never be able to have a railway. Like Kenya’s ‘Lunatic Line‘ – where laborers faced the dangers of angry tribesmen, malaria-rife swamps, and hungry lions – and Argentina’s high-altitude, bridge-riddled ‘Train to the Clouds’, the conditions through which a Tibetan railway would run were deemed by many to be too dangerous. Unsurprisingly, the Chinese saw it a different way.

That’s not to say that it wasn’t without its challenges. With 960km, or about 596 miles, of the track resting at a lofty height of 4,000 meters and some altitudes stretching over 5,000 meters above sea level, the Qinghai-Tibet Railway is the world’s highest train route (although soon to be unseated by India’s Bilaspur-Manali-Leh railway line in 2022). As a result, the railway’s engineers had three main obstacles to consider: a dangerous lack of oxygen, a fragile ecosystem, and permafrost.

 

Qinghai-Tibet Railway. Image by thriol via Flickr

 

Where did all the oxygen go? 

At 4,000m above sea level, the air is 50% thinner, making breathing much more difficult, let alone hard labor. In spite of these odds, no workers died from altitude sickness. This is an impressive feat in and of itself, given that some people can suffer from related sicknesses simply by going to that altitude and relaxing. To fight the issue of thin air, oxygen-generation stations were placed throughout the route along with 600 medical professionals who were stationed at clinics every 10 kilometers alongside the workspaces. Breaks were given liberally, and some workers were even provided with oxygen tanks to help them while they worked.

A fragile ecosystem

In addition to the high altitude, the ecosystems through which the railway runs are notoriously fragile. Noise, vibration, and pollution caused not just by construction, but regular rail traffic overall, can be disruptive at best and catastrophic at worst. Fortunately, designers and engineers, recognizing the inherent value of the preservation of the biosphere, made protecting the delicate environmental balance top priority, investing some RMB1.54 billion (over $216 million) in the endeavor.

All wastewater was thoroughly treated before being discharged. Passageways for wild animals (such as the Tibetan antelope) were even built, charting a path so that it would intrude as little as possible for sensitive species. This consideration forced the originally planned course to be aborted because it would pass through reserves dedicated to the black-necked crane. Construction was even halted during the mating season for the Tibetan antelope. Where impossible to fully avoid, interference was minimized as much as possible. Today, trains rumble across 675 bridges designed to prevent damage to the landscape, cars are heated by eco-friendly energy sources, and fences prevent wildlife from crossing the tracks and entering harm’s way.

Perma-what?

The final hurdle that made the Qinghai-Tibet Railway such an engineering marvel is that it had to be able to withstand the yearly expansion-contraction cycles of permafrost soil. Basically, how to build a track on ground that was going to change year in and year out?

Again, this obstacle was solved by building bridges. Whenever possible, the savvy engineers elevated the track over the permafrost, or created stone embankments to increase air circulation. In short, although the odds were stacked against them, the railway’s persistent and inventive engineers found a way to adequately address every issue.

 

Qinghai-Tibet Railway Under Construction. Image by Erik Törner via Flickr

 

On the ‘Sky Road’ today

Stretching from Xining in Qinghai Province, cutting across the barren grasslands of the Tibetan Plateau, and mounting the forbidding winter fairyland of the Kunlun Mountains before arriving in Lhasa, the Qinghai-Tibet Railway is more than just a train from Point A to Point B. It’s a transporting, both literally and figuratively, journey filled with untouched, achingly beautiful vistas.

Only a day in length (20 hours 55 minutes to be precise), you’d be hardpressed to find a moment worth falling asleep for, as tempting as it is to nod off to the gentle rocking and click-clack of the train. However, if you do still plan on getting some shut-eye, here are some stretches that are more than worth waking up (or drinking a lot of coffee) for:

1. Chaerhan Salt Lake

750km from Xining, Chaerhan Salt Lake is the first landmark travelers should be sure to awake for. The largest salt lake in China, and one of the most famous in the world, it is so crystal clear that it appears to be a massive, natural mirror.

2. Kunlun Mountains

The first mountain range you’ll come across is also the largest mountain system in China, reaching heights as high as 6,000 meters above sea level. Given that it’s the largest system of mountains in China, it’ll be hard to sleep through all of them.

3. Kunlun Mountain Pass

Roughly 160km from Golmud, the second-largest city in the Tibetan Plateau, you’ll come to the Kunlun Mountain pass. The sudden rise from 2,800 meters to 4,700 meters above sea level, causes the temperature to plummet, creating what can only be described as a perpetual winter wonderland.

 

Kunlun Mountains. Image by Chen Zhao via Flickr

 

4. Hoh Xil Depopulated Area

In this region, you’ll have a good chance of spotting Tibetan antelope running alongside the train if you keep your eyes sharp. There are plenty of other animals to be seen here, including wild donkeys, yaks, white-lipped deer, snow leopards, and many more. Don’t worry about missing it though – at 4,500 square kilometers in size, you’re unlikely to miss it even if you do decide to make time for a cat nap.

5. Tanggula Mountain Pass

Previously considered an invisible barrier to Tibet because of its altitude and terrible weather, the Tanggula Mountain Pass is another can’t-miss piece of natural beauty. You’ll likely see naturally formed ice sculptures and even some yak drinking from the rivers.

6. Qiangtang Grassland

Tibet is like the Texas of China – everything there is massive. The Qiangtang Grassland is one of the five largest pastures in China. It has an abundance of plants, wild animals, including yak, sheep, and nomad camps.

 

Along the Qinghai-Tibet Railway. Image by travel oriented via Flickr

 

What it’s like on the train

When not gazing in awe out the windows, riders on the train are able to experience some pretty impressive features, all provided to make the journey as comfortable and safe as possible. Each car is pressurized (much like the cabin of an aircraft) and equipped with an oxygen supply system to help prevent any travelers from feeling sick or light-headed, cabins come with private oxygen-dispensing outlets, and each train has an on-site doctor just in case.

Like most trains in China’s network, travelers have access to hot water dispensers, a restaurant car, and both squat and sit-down toilets. Be prepared to have your translation app at the ready though, as most train attendants don’t speak English. And as with other China trains, riders have the option of booking one of three classes of seats:

• Hard seat: Cushioned seats (despite the name) that, while cheap, can be cramped and uncomfortable over long journeys
• Hard sleeper: Six beds stacked in half-opened compartments and equipped with thin mattresses and space for luggage above the window
• Soft sleeper: Four beds in large, lockable, and private compartments and equipped with thick-cushioned mattresses

Additionally, all train cars have environmentally friendly toilets, wastewater deposit tanks, and garbage treatment facilities to help minimize any environmental impacts.

 

Qinghai-Tibet Railway. Image by Henry Chen via Flickr

 

How to Do It

After all this, it should come as no surprise that the Qinghai-Tibet Railway is quite popular, especially during the months of July and August. As a result, we highly recommend booking as far in advance is possible, either through their website (chinatibettrain.com) or through a travel agent or tour operator (like us!).

Plus, since this is Tibet we’re talking about, there are also a number of permits that need to be secured – again, we’re here to help. And trust us, this little bit of effort is more than worth the reward of the breathtaking scenery that will linger in your memories long after the trip ends.

Originally posted on Caixin Global

Buddhism came to China in many waves and through many routes. It brought not just a philosophy, but a cultural milieu of art, sculpture, festivals, and literature. Nowhere is the influence of these different strands of Buddhism on Chinese art more visible than in the Mogao Caves on the edge of the Taklamakan Desert in northwestern China. Devout Buddhists began building the intricate complex of caves in the fourth century, with construction peaking during the Tang Dynasty in the seventh century before petering out 700 years later in the turmoil of the Yuan Dynasty. The desert provided the perfect retreat for believers to focus and practice their faith. The 735 caves that remain today present the largest collection of Buddhist fresco art and provide insight into the lives of the monks who lived there.

 

Go West, Young Traveler

When China’s President Xi Jinping announced the ‘One Belt, One Road Initiative,’ what sprang to mind was a dusty stretch of asphalt heading east out of the city of Dunhuang in Gansu Province. I was there in 1998, biking under the hot sun with endless, tanned desert stretching out to both sides of me. About 5 kilometers (3 miles) from the city, small mounds began to interrupt the rolling, sandy surface. I kept riding my motorbike, without a soul in sight. Occasionally, a giant tour bus rushed past, briefly towering over me before heading off down the road. It dawned on me that the mounds on the side of the road were nameless tombs — thousands upon thousands of them — extending as far as the eye could see.

As I later learned, this cluster of tens of thousands of tombs dated back more than 1,500 years to the Northern Wei Dynasty. They are known as the Xindiantai Ancient Tombs, but no sign marked the site. Perhaps that’s the drawback of having a world heritage site — the Mogao Caves — as a neighbor. For the rest of my life, I have remembered the 25-kilometer journey to the Mogao Caves as we rode among the dead. It also marked the beginning of my exploration of the Silk Road. 

 

Entrance to the Mogao Caves

 

Building A Buddhist Oasis

The Mogao Caves were built over a span of more than 1,000 years, their construction paralleling the development of the ancient Silk Road. During the Tang Dynasty, when the Silk Road was the most important overland trading route in the world, the nearby town of Dunhuang became a major trading center, while the Mogao Caves became an important religious site. The camel caravans along the Silk Road carried with them not just tea and silks, but also cultural influence. When the Silk Road began to decline in importance as a trade route linking Central Asia and China, the building of the caves ceased.

For hundreds of years thereafter, the Mogao Caves lay silent until a Taoist monk, Wang Yuanlu, started a private cleanup effort at the caves. In the process, he discovered a hidden cave containing 50,000 scrolls of Buddhist scriptures. The story that followed reads like a Hollywood movie, with most of the items stolen or sold for cheap to Western explorers or collectors. Among the collectors, British archeologist Aurel Stein was credited for the large collection of Mogao art held in the British Museum today.

Initially, the caves served only as a place of meditation for hermit monks, but they later developed to accommodate the growing population of worshippers. Today, the Mogao Cave ruins are clearly divided into a northern section and a southern section. The southern section is the one that most visitors get to see, and it was where the religious activities took place. Hence, all 487 caves there are filled with religiously themed frescos and statues, mostly telling Buddhist stories or those of the temple sponsors. In a few caves built during the late Tang Dynasty, there are images of the Huihu people, their facial features strikingly Caucasian — the ancestors of today’s Uighurs in China. In contrast, section to the north was mostly used as living quarters by the monks. There, caves were equipped with kitchens and lampstands, among other things. 

 

A Buddhist stone carving

 

Exploring Mogao

No photos or history books can prepare a person for the Mogao Caves. After riding through the desert, the trees lining the entrance seemed greener than I expected, and the notion that a group of monks would choose to live out there was even more unbelievable. The harsh sun, sand, wind, and the fear of death that assailed me that day were only a small taste of what those earlier worshippers had to endure. One can only imagine the harsh conditions that the builders faced, meticulously painting and sculpting every little detail in the middle of the desert. It occurred to me that the desert, originally considered a curse, may have ended up being the caves’ protector. They survived because of the desert’s remote location and dry climate.

Moving among the caves was like walking through 1,200 years of Buddhist art history. The frescos in the earlier caves, still with aged pigment, struck me as similar to Edvard Munch’s famous painting The Scream or Vincent van Gogh’s The Starry Night. Although the paintings in the caves evoke very different emotions, the fluidity of the daring strokes and the expressive emotions leapt off the wall. 

Totally taken by the caves, I went back to Dunhuang and hunched over history books for two days. Then I took the bus back out to the caves. This time, I ran into the same curator who guided me on my first visit. He said he was going to visit a nun out in the desert that day. I begged and pleaded to join him, and he let me tag along.

 

A Buddhist statue in the Mogao Caves with its original paint pigment

 

A Lonely Temple

We walked, this time, through the desert. The half bottle of water I brought along dwindled fast; the path in the desert seemed to be leading nowhere. Then finally, we arrived. Surrounded by sharp rocky cliffs, a tiny structure housed a large statue of Guanyin, the Buddha of Compassion. The Guanyin sits on a platform about 1 meter (3 feet) above the ground. Standing 3 meters tall, its head nearly touches the ceiling of the small room. The nun, Wang Shifu (Master Wang), greeted us. Her wrinkled hand, browned by years under the desert sun, extended me a ladle of cold spring water. Nothing had tasted better in my whole life.

I later learned that the temple is called Guanyinjing, or the Well of Guanyin. It is rare to find a water source in the desert, so worshipers believed the well was a miracle, and that its water possessed magical healing properties. That’s how the temple came into being. In the mid-1980s, two brothers rebuilt the temple. The brothers’ surname was also Wang, so I wondered if Wang Shifu was related to them. Apparently, after the year 2000, this lonely temple was further expanded. A tourism development company built a 38-meter-tall Buddha statue nearby and paved a highway to connect the temple to the Mogao Caves, covering the 7 kilometers that I walked in 1998. Tourists now have to pay 20 yuan to visit. Imagining the shining new Buddha, I still prefer the lonely old structure I saw.

On the day I hiked through the desert, I knelt in front of the Buddha feeling quite at peace. Maybe one simply has to confront the harshness of the desert long enough to go through the changes inherent in the journey — from “Oh, it’s too hot” to awe, to finally being subdued by nature. Beaten down by the sun and thirst, the oasis and the well water become life-saving. Meeting the Buddha at this moment was pure serendipity. I admired those like Wang Shifu, who gave up their creature comforts to come and face themselves in this harsh environment every day. At that moment, I understood why people built the Mogao Caves. Out in the desert, you simply become one with nature, not above it. I now wonder, if the Belt and Road passes by the Mogao Caves, what will be traded on this new route? As a traveler, I am eager to find out.

 

Known to locals as the ‘First Lake Under Heaven,’ the freshwater Crescent Moon Lake is believed to have existed for more than 2,000 years.

 

See It For Yourself

How to Get There

To get to Dunhuang, there are regular, three-hour direct flights from Beijing and eight-hour flights from Shanghai that stopover in Xi’an.  You can also visit Dunhuang and the Mogao Caves as part of a longer Silk Road journey. There are regular, 21⁄2-hour flights from Xi’an, allowing you to start by spending a day or two enjoying the sights and sounds of the Silk Road’s terminus. You can then continue along the trade route to the cities of Turpan, Urumqi, or Kashgar in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region.

Where to Stay

Dunhuang offers a range of accommodation, from four-star hotels to backpacker hostels. If you can, find a place to dine outside so you can listen to the roar of the wind over the dunes — what Marco Polo called the ‘rumbling sands.’

What to Do

The Mogao Caves will be at the top of your to-do list, and you can easily spend a whole day exploring them. After you’ve fallen in love with Mogao, there is still plenty more to do in the area. Spend some time in the Taklamakan Desert and bargain with one of the local camel herders for a ride to Crescent Moon Lake, a small oasis amid the sand. Known to locals as the ‘First Lake Under Heaven,’ the natural freshwater lake is believed to have existed for over 2,000 years.

If you’ve got the time, the Yumenguan pass, an ancient gateway to Dunhuang is also worth a visit. Located at the westernmost extension of the Great Wall, the pass was originally built to protect the city from invasion. Later, it became an important trading post along the Silk Road. Every caravan, merchant, trader, and horse traveling to Dunhuang had to pass through it. Today, only the small, square fortress remains, but remnants of the Great Wall can be spotted in the distance.

Dunhuang’s night market is the perfect place to get a taste of the local cuisine. Slurp a bowl of Lanzhou lamian, Gansu province’s signature noodle dish, and enjoy your meal served up alongside an engaging slice of local life.

If you are looking to dive deeper into Gansu, head south to the Danxia landform in the city of Zhangye, where tectonic activity has created a unique, multicolored topography.

 

Mei Zhang is the founder of AsiaTravel and author of Travels Through Dali With a Leg of Ham, out via Penguin Books. Follow Mei’s travels on Instagram at @wildchinamei.

Featured image by Jeff Fuchs, AsiaTravel Expert

There are a few certainties when it comes to travel. You’ll definitely learn something new, whether it’s how to make a killer bowl of noodles or something as simple as how to say ‘hello’ in Mandarin (nihao, just in case you’re not there yet). You’ll probably expand your concept of the world, challenging yourself and gaining an appreciation for what you have and where you come from in the process. And, you will certainly meet some incredible people along the way, from the person sitting next to you in the quaint neighborhood restaurant to the local guiding you through their hometown. That’s the beautiful thing about traveling: it brings people together.

That’s why we are thrilled to announce that we are expanding our small group trips through China (and beyond) for 2020. While we love traveling solo or with loved ones, we can’t get enough of being able to explore a new place with like-minded new friends by our side. Nothing bonds people quite like taking your first step onto the Great Wall together or sleeping in a yurt in Kyrgyzstan under a blanket of stars. Plus, with our local guides filled with an invaluable wealth of insider knowledge and, for some of our trips, an expert at the helm to lead the way, you’ll head for home with plenty of newfound friends and enough memories to last a lifetime as souvenirs.  

Before we get to the good stuff, let’s go over a bit of housekeeping so you know what you can expect on a small group journey with AsiaTravel.

–   First off, as any traveler familiar with China is likely aware, group tours through the Middle Kingdom usually make you feel like one of the herd, straining to catch what the guide is saying as you follow around their flag. Not with us. We cap our groups at a cozy 10-12 travelers (depending on the trip) – that way you can actually hear every anecdote, insight, and helpful tip our guides, experts, and the local people we interact with have to offer.

–   Next, all our small group travelers have the option of either sharing a room or spending a bit more to have the space all to yourself. So, whether you really want to get to know your fellow travelers (and save some money in the process) or you’re ok with investing in your privacy, we can accommodate you.

–   Finally, the cutoff for registering for one of our trips is roughly two months prior to the departure date. This allows for plenty of time to prepare any necessary visa or other applicable documents. So, be sure to reach out to us when you see a journey that catches your eye. We can’t wait to hear from you!

From quintessential cities like Beijing and Shanghai to more remote destinations like Tibet and the Silk Road, from journeys themed around food and archaeology to itineraries with a well-rounded balance of everything, there is sure to be something that thrills you. Now, with no further ado, here are the small group adventures we can’t wait to embark on next year.

 

Expert-Led Journeys

South by Southeast: Yunnan & Laos with Georgia Freedman

Market | Image by Peter Hershey via Unsplash

South by Southwest might be a meeting of American pop culture’s most inspiring minds, but South by Southeast is a melding of Southern Yunnan’s and Northern Laos’s most instrumental cultural influences. With food writer Georgia Freedman at the helm, explore everything from the fresh flavors of Yunnan to the unique textile traditions of the ethnic minorities of Laos. Before the trip is through, you’ll witness the daily Buddhist ritual of tak bat, try your hand at pottery-making, lock in the good spirits in a traditional Baci ceremony. You’re certain to depart with your stomachs, hearts, and minds full.

Trip Length:	9 Days	Dates:	March 23-31, 2020
Cost:	From $6,280/person	Places Visited:	Jinghong, Muang La, Nong Khiaw, Luang Prabang

 

History Unearthed: An Archaeological Journey Through China with Dr. Ye Wa

Crescent Moon Lake

With a history as enduring and legendary as China’s, there are bound to be some treasures just waiting to be discovered. Fortunately for you, through serendipity (like Xi’an’s Terracotta Warriors) and hard work (such as Dunhuang’s Mogao Grottoes), many of them have already been brought to light. This journey won’t just take you there – it will tell you their stories, with archaeological expert Dr. Ye Wa as the storyteller. Traverse the ancient Silk Road and unlock your inner Indiana Jones as you pick the brains of experts and get hands-on with digs like the astounding Neolithic site, Yangguangzhai.

Trip Length:	10 Days	Dates:	May 10-19, 2020
Cost:	From $6,180/person	Places Visited:	Dunhuang, Lanzhou, Tianshui, Xi’an

 

Gastronomic Tour of China with Fuchsia Dunlop

Dumplings | Image by Charles Haynes, AsiaTravel Guest

Get your chopsticks ready for the return of one of our most popular small group adventures: Fuchsia Dunlop’s Gastronomic Tour of China. Named a National Geographic ‘Tour of a Lifetime,’ this journey will see you savor every bit of China’s culinary culture, from Peking duck in Beijing to fiery hotpot in Sichuan. Food with a side of culture, you’ll stand in ‘aww’ of Chengdu’s cuddly pandas before downing dinner in a private kitchen and enjoy a picnic on the Great Wall after immersing yourself in local life in Beijing’s hutong alleys. With an award-winning expert like Fuchsia as your guide, you’ll return home ready to shop, chop, stir fry, and eat like a local.

Trip Length:	13 Days	Dates:	May 11-23, 2020
Cost:	From $7,390/person	Places Visited:	Beijing, Chengdu, Hangzhou, Shanghai, Xi’an

 

 A Gastronomic Tour Through Central Asia with Anissa Helou

Xinjiang Bread | Image by AsiaTravel Guest Alexandra Boulton

China is near and dear to our heart, but we also love when we can get out and explore our Asian neighbors – especially when there is delicious food to be had. So, when we had the chance to partner on a journey with award-winning chef and food writer Anissa Helou, we jumped at the chance. With an Islamic cuisine expert at the helm, you’ll get your hands dirty making regional delicacies and get lost in bustling bazaars as you haggle for that perfect souvenir before sitting down for a homespun meal with the locals. Spanning from Xinjiang Province to Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, this is an indulgent adventure filled with hospitality and jaw-dropping vistas.

Trip Length:	10 Days	Dates:	June 6-16, 2020
Cost:	From $5,580/person	Places Visited:	Kashgar, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan

Yunnan Gastronomic Tour with Fuchsia Dunlop

Tea Garden | Image by Elizabeth Phung

Gastronomic adventures with Fuchsia Dunlop are so nice we decided to do them twice – this time focusing on the cuisine of Yunnan Province. Here, China’s rich culinary traditions and the citrus and spice of Southeast Asia seamlessly blend with the rich cultures of the region’s ethnic minorities, creating redolent flavors and fascinating customs you must experience to understand. For this journey, culture and cuisine are effortlessly combined, taking you from Confucian temples and tea plantations to home-cooked meals and cooking lessons. It’s sure to leave you longing for local specialties like rushan cheese and Mengzi’s Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles. Luckily, you’ll have the skills to help you satisfy every craving.

Trip Length:	10 Days	Dates:	September 16-25, 2020
Cost:	From $5,869/person	Places Visited:	Dali, Jianshui, Kunming, Mengzi, Weibaoshan

 

Traversing the Ancient Tea Horse Road with Jeff Fuchs

Freshly Picked Tea | Image by Jeff Fuchs, AsiaTravel Expert

The history of tea is almost as long and illustrious as the history of China itself. What started as a humble infusion for the locals in southern China spread to the far reaches of the country and beyond, and it is all thanks to the Ancient Tea Horse Road. On this National Geographic ‘Tour of a Lifetime’ led by tea expert and explorer Jeff Fuchs, you will follow the trail – and tea – back to its roots, from Xishuangbanna to the Tibetan Plateau, drinking in centuries of tea-drenched culture along the way. The first documented westerner to traverse the storied trade network, Jeff will hike with you to the ancient tea tree forests and welcome you into the homes of the descendants of the first tea cultivators.

Trip Length:	10 Days	Dates:	November 6-15, 2020
Cost:	From $7,100/person	Places Visited:	Dali, Lijiang, Shangril-La, Shaxi, Xishuangbanna

 

AsiaTravel Adventures

Travels Through Dali With a Leg of Ham

Meal in Dali | Image by Elizabeth Phung

Inspired, and personally designed, by our founder Mei Zhang’s journey back to her homeland, this small group tour is a cultural and culinary odyssey into the homes and kitchens of the specialty chefs of Yunnan. Savor every crumb of age-old traditions and fascinating tales as you devour an array of artisanal delicacies, from handmade Shaxi cheese to the trip’s namesake ham – with a stunning backdrop of fertile valleys backed by mountains and pastoral villages. Plus, if there are more than six travelers, Mei herself will lead the group – sharing the story of Dali like only a native can.

Trip Length:	7 Days	Dates:	March 15-21, 2020
Cost:	From $3,550/person	Places Visited:	Dali

 

La Esencia Del Dragón: Spanish Language Only 

Dragon Doors

We’re pretty excited about all of our group journeys, but we are especially proud of La Esencia del Dragón. Designed especially with our Spanish-speaking guests in mind, this first-ever small group tour has everything. From high-end restaurants and luxury hotels in China’s must-see cities to hands-on cultural exploration and jaw-dropping performances, it’s perfect for new China travelers or Middle Kingdom experts. Whether drinking in the scenery while bamboo rafting on the Yulong River or devouring dumplings in Xi’an, our Spanish-speaking guides can’t wait to make this rich, varied place feel like your home too.

Trip Length:	12 Days	Dates:	April 6-17, 2020
Cost:	From $6,000/person	Places Visited:	Beijing, Shanghai, Xi’an, Yangshuo

 

Soul of Tibet

Potala Palace | Image by Isabel Wang, AsiaTravel Travel Designer

Inherently spiritual and richly layered, Tibet is one of those places that will open its soul to you the longer you linger and the farther you journey. Accordingly, this small group adventure will take life at the speed of Tibet, meandering through Lhasa where you’ll mingle with monks and drink in the local life at a tea house before passing the glistening turquoise shores of Yamdrok Tso Lake and rolling countryside en route to Gyantse and Shigatse. After walking the kora like the many faithful before, you’ll leave Lhasa knowing that Tibet is one of those places that once you explore it, it sticks with you forever.

Trip Length:	7 Days	Dates:	June 1-7, 2020 July 1-7, 2020 August 25-31, 2020
Cost:	From $1,502/person	Places Visited:	Gyantse, Lhasa, Shigatse

 

AsiaTravel Classics

China’s Giants: Of Palaces and Pandas

Entrance to the Forbidden City | Image by Kyle Obermann, AsiaTravel Explorer

China is a bit like Texas – everything is bigger here, with a long and illustrious history to match. Whether exploring some of the world’s largest megacities, volunteering with giant pandas, conquering the Great Wall, or taking in a Terracotta Army more than 8,000 soldiers strong, this small group tour is sure to be an adventure of mammoth proportions. The Middle Kingdom has a history over 5,000 years in the making and we are determined to show you the best of what it has to offer, making this the perfect journey for anyone new to this massive country.

Trip Length:	12 Days	Dates:	March 17-28, 2020 April 14-25, 2020 May 12-23, 2020
Cost:	From $6,447/person	Places Visited:	Beijing, Chengdu, Shanghai, Xi’an

 

Essence of China

Li River

With a country as huge and varied as China, the bucket list of destinations is sure to be long. Lucky for you, we’ve picked out a few of our favorites for this journey that is perfect for first-time visitors, with a AsiaTravel twist. From a champagne picnic on the Great Wall to a story-filled tour of the Bund in Shanghai with a AsiaTravel expert, we take the must-sees and plus them as only a China authority can. After exploring winding hutong alleys, looking history in the eye at the Terracotta Warriors, gazing over the emerald-bedecked landscapes of rice terraces and karst mountains, and people-watching in the French Concession, you’ll certainly leave China with your curiosity sated – at least until your next adventure.

Trip Length:	13 Days	Dates:	October 12-24, 2020
Cost:	From $6,575/person	Places Visited:	Beijing, Guilin, Shanghai, Xi’an

 

Metropolises & Middle Kingdoms

Shanghai Skyline

China is a study in contrasts – unfathomably large megacities and rustic mountain villages, colorful local markets buzzing with energy and temple-topped peaks where faithful practice tai chi. While we can’t show it all to you at once, this journey does its best to try. From the dazzling skylines of the east to the pastoral landscapes of the southwest, you will get a glimpse into the true diversity China has to offer, sharing stories with locals in Beijing’s hutongs and partaking in age-old customs with ethnic minorities in Yunnan along the way. It’s an enlightening remix – old and new, tradition meets technology – that’s made for Middle Kingdom novices and old China hands alike.  

Trip Length:	12 Days	Dates:	October 12-23, 2020 November 9-20, 2020 December 7-18, 2020
Cost:	From $5,952/person	Places Visited:	Beijing, Dali, Lijiang, Shanghai, Shaxi

 

So, there you have it – a veritable buffet of small group journeys through China and beyond. Whether food with a dash of culture, days filled with history and archaeology, or an exploration of some of the country’s greatest hits, we invite you to choose your own adventure. And no matter your decision, one thing is certain: you’ll head home with a head filled with memories, a suitcase stuffed with souvenirs, and a heart overflowing with newfound friendships. To join us on one of our upcoming small group trips, feel free to reach out to one of our talented Travel Designers. We can’t wait to see you all next year.

Jiuzhaigou National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, in China’s Sichuan Province is a true gem of an attraction. Meaning ‘Nine Village Valley’, Jiuzhaigou is named for the nine Tibetan villages that dot the sprawling park. According to Tibetan legend, Woluo Semo, a beautiful goddess, was gifted a magical mirror made of wind by her lover Dage. As misfortune would have it, a jealous demon forced the goddess to drop the mirror, causing it to shatter and form the 114 glittering lakes that make up Jiuzhaigou. It’s these bluer-than-blue lakes that once attracted over seven million visitors annually to the park.

The mirrored, turquoise blue waters of Jiuzhaigou National Park  |  Image by An Zhenyi

Then, on August 8, 2017, a 7.0-magnitude earthquake rocked Jiuzhaigou County, killing at least 24 people, injuring more than 500, and destroying much of the renowned national park. Landslides were triggered, blanketing the formerly lush forests with debris and muddying the park’s iconic crystalline, cerulean-blue lakes, or causing them to drain entirely. A shadow of its former self, Jiuzhaigou was forced to close – a gut punch to the area’s tourism industry.

Thankfully, now over two years later, Jiuzhaigou National Park is back open for visitors on a trial basis. Although a few sites have been open to the public since last March, most of the park has remained closed to allow the restoration process to continue, capping visitors to only 2,000 each day. As of September 27, 85% percent of the UNESCO World Heritage Site is ready for visitors.

Nuorilang Waterfall before the earthquake  |  Image by An Zhenyi

The restoration process hasn’t been easy. Sparkling Lake was marred by a chasm stretching 50 meters long, 20 meters wide, and 12 meters deep, and is still yet to reopen. Nuorilang Waterfall, one of the icons of the park, sustained significant damage but has fortunately reopened for visitors, although the view won’t be quite the same as before. As for Jiuzhaigou’s crystal-clear waters, thanks to being fed by underground rivers and the park being covered nearly entirely by forest, the lakes were able to purify themselves. And the dissolving limestone continues to provide the lakes with their signature turquoise hue.

Fall colors at Jiuzhaigou National Park

For travelers interested in visiting Jiuzhaigou, there are a few important things to note. While most of the park is open again, some areas are still off-limits. However, travelers do have access to scenic spots in all of Zezhawa Valley, most of Shuzheng Valley (except for Sparkling Lake), and some of Rize Valley. The rest of the park is set to reopen in 2020. Currently, scenic areas are only open between the hours of 8:30am and 5pm. To help manage the park’s capacity and maintain the safety of both the visitors and the delicate ecosystem, entries are capped at a max of 5,000 people each day. Additionally, all travelers must purchase tickets from designated websites prior to the visit and be part of an organized tour (like with AsiaTravel). Unfortunately, it’s still unknown if, or when, Jiuzhaigou will open its gates to independent travelers.

Needless to say, we couldn’t be happier to see this national treasure almost completely reopened and are excited to be able to share its breathtaking beauty with our travelers once again.

For anyone that’s been paying attention to China steadily rising up the must-see travel destination lists, alongside the increasing ubiquity of Chinese tourists, it will come as no surprise that China’s capital city is home to the world’s second-busiest airport. In fact, in 2018, Beijing Capital International Airport – already operating at full capacity – saw over 100 million travelers pass through its terminals. On top of that, the Middle Kingdom is set to surpass the United States as the largest air travel market in the world by 2023. Needless to say, it was high time China’s capital city got a second international airport.

Ready for travelers at Beijing Daxing International Airport  |  Image by Andres Vargas

To much fanfare, Beijing Daxing International Airport opened its runways for business on September 25, 2019 – just in time for the 70^th anniversary of the People’s Republic of China. With facial recognition software, robots, and AI fueling much of the operations (but not the actual fueling process, don’t worry), convenience and accessibility are at the core of the airport, as is its design.

The building is the largest single-structure airport in the world at roughly 7.5 million square feet in size, befitting a country as massive as China. Lucky for travelers, its sprawling size won’t mean increased walk times. Thanks to its radial design, not only will more aircraft be able to load and unload at once, but passengers should also only have to walk eight minutes at most to reach their gate.

Zaha Hadid-designed Beijing Daxing International Airport  |  Image by Andres Vargas

What’s more, although the airport is only a little more than a month old, Daxing is already well on its way to becoming one of Beijing’s architectural icons. While transportation to and from the airport and the center of Beijing is yet to be as convenient as the airport itself, we don’t actually mind. The airport is a place to visit in and of itself. Designed by an award-winning team, featuring viewing platforms and indoor gardens, and containing modern art installations, Daxing is set to become one of those airports that you will never forget flying through. 

Our recommendation: Getting to an airport on time in a city you don’t know (or even know really well) can be stressful at the best of times. Add to that a vastly variable travel time because of traffic and… well, no one wants that kind of stress. So, why not head out there even earlier than your overbearing elderly relatives may have once suggested? Plan to arrive four hours early instead of two. Or go even earlier and have lunch and a stroll around. 

The ‘Starfish’  |  Image via Shutterstock

Contemporary Design Meets Chinese Culture

Designed by the renowned late architect Zaha Hadid, the building has been nicknamed the ‘Starfish’ for its distinctive six-pointed, burnt-orange asterisk-like design when viewed from above. However, while working on the project before her untimely death in 2016, Hadid explained that the design was actually meant to be a phoenix (feng huang in Chinese) in flight. It is this celestial muse that is especially emblematic. An auspicious symbol in Chinese culture, the phoenix is also associated with the south in feng shui, which is particularly notable given that Daxing rests in Beijing’s southernmost district. In fact, in the traditional school of feng shui, a phoenix is said to be the mythological creature that guards a home’s main entrance. And what grand home sits almost directly to the airport’s north, roughly 30 miles away in the city center? The Forbidden City – which, as any house with good feng shui must do, faces south.

Walking into the airport, one would be forgiven for thinking they’ve stepped foot into a contemporary museum or performance hall. With its daring curves, swooping parabolas, bold lines, and vaulting arched skylights, Daxing is a veritable cathedral of modern design. Yet, it has one foot firmly planted in culture and age-old customs.

Zaha Hadid-designed Beijing Daxing International Airport  |  Image by Andres Vargas

Like in traditional Chinese architecture, the airport is organized around a central courtyard with interconnected spaces surrounding it, similar to the siheyuan (courtyard house) found throughout the country. And travelers won’t just have to huddle next to an outlet waiting for their flight to be called. Instead, they can wander through one of the five traditional Chinese gardens that are tucked at the end of each departure lounge when the weather (and air) is good. Designed with assistance from prominent Chinese contemporary artist Xu Bing, the outdoor courtyards feature meandering pathways through greenery and rocks, pavilions, and benches reminiscent of the renowned gardens of Suzhou. And the eye candy doesn’t stop there.

We said you’d be forgiven for thinking that Daxing was a contemporary museum, but in fact, some parts of it actually are. Many spaces within the airport were designed and curated by China’s prestigious Central Academy of Fine Arts (CAFA). From large installations that are just waiting to be ‘grammed to interactive screens inspired by traditional ink and wash paintings, CAFA’s handiwork is sure to keep travelers entertained as they wait for their departure. 

Zaha Hadid-designed Beijing Daxing International Airport  |  Image by Andres Vargas

Art not your scene? For those more interested in duty-free shopping, dining, or caffeinating during their layover, Daxing has that covered too. When all the flights are fully up and running, the airport will have over 300 restaurants and shops (currently there are about 100 open). And we aren’t just talking about your typical convenience stores and mediocre, overpriced dining outlets. Excellence is the name of the game at the airport, along with the policy of “same price and same quality as the city.” Luxury brands like Ferragamo, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, and Cartier are all setting up shop in Daxing. When it comes to food, there’s something for everyone, whether you’re looking for Asian favorites like ramen or dim sum, American diner cuisine at Blue Frog, or healthy, plant-based options. Oh, and as for Starbucks, there are currently four different outposts open with six more on the way.

So, while the airport is obviously a travel hub first and foremost, its breathtaking architecture, thoughtful art spaces, and abundant shopping and dining options make Daxing a destination in and of itself. Some of our Beijing team were fortunate to be able to see it for themselves and they agree that it is well worth exploring before catching a flight. If you’re lucky enough to have a flight out of there, we recommend that you arrive at least 1.5 hours ahead of the time you would normally arrive just so you have time to see everything.

Zaha Hadid-designed Beijing Daxing International Airport  |  Image by Andres Vargas

How to Get There (and Away)

At approximately 30 miles from the city center in one of Beijing’s less traveled districts, Daxing Airport isn’t exactly quick and easy to get to – yet. Luckily, there are a multitude of plans in the works to change that. If you’re planning on catching a taxi or Didi from the middle of Beijing (roughly $30/220RMB), the ride will take about 1.5 hours in light traffic or more than two hours on a bad day.

If public transportation is more your speed, there are currently only two options available. The brand-new high-speed (up to 160km/hour) Daxing Express (approximately $5/35RMB) departs from Caoqiao Station on line 10 and will deliver you to the airport in 19 minutes. Alternatively, the Beijing-Xiong’an Intercity Railway Line (about $4.20/30RMB) runs from the Beijing West Railway Station to Daxing in 30 minutes. As of now, however, this method only runs in the direction of the airport with the return route opening in 2020. Additionally, shuttles are also available to transport passengers between Daxing and Beijing Capital Airport.

Zaha Hadid-designed Beijing Daxing International Airport  |  Image by Andres Vargas

In the future, construction of an expanded airport express extending further north, the Intercity Railway Connector linking Daxing with Beiijing Capital Airport, and a more extensive Beijing-Xiong’an Intercity Railway Line will make getting to the capital’s newest airport much simpler (and faster).

As for what airlines will be calling Daxing home, that’s still in flux, at least where international airlines are concerned. Currently, all of China’s major domestic carriers (including China Eastern, China Southern, and Air China) have flights in and out of Daxing. Internationally speaking, member airlines of the Skyteam Alliance are also operating out of Daxing, or at least they will be in the future if they aren’t already. As always, we highly recommend that you double-check your flight reservations for the correct departure and arrival airports as some airlines operate out of both Beijing Capital Airport and Daxing. Trust us, you don’t want that stress of needing to get from one to the other before the new Intercity Railway Connector is up and running.

—

So, move over Singapore Changi Airport. Beijing Daxing International Airport is here to steal the title of the airport you most want to hang out in. To find flights in and out of Daxing, just search for the airport code PKX. We can’t wait to see you in Beijing!

Cangshan Mountain is located on the west side of the Erhai Lake in Dali. The scenery is extremely beautiful. The snow on its main peak is majestic and spectacular. It is one of the four sceneries of Dali’s “Fenghuaxueyue”. The clouds and mists in Cangshan Mountain are unpredictable, and they have a lot of strange shapes. When you climb to the top of the mountain, you can overlook the beautiful scenery of Erhai Lake and Dali.

Walking on the Yudai Road with an altitude of more than 2,000 meters, you can overlook the scenery of Dali Dam and Erhai Lake at any time, which is so relaxing.

It is still recommended to take the ropeway to visit the Cangshan Mountain. One reson is to save physical strength. The other is that you can’t feel the magnificence and beauty of Cangshan Mountain when hiking up the mountain. There are three ropeways in Cangshan Mountain. They are Zhonghe Ropeway, Gantong Temple Ropeway and Cangshan Mountain Ropeway, which is also known as Ximatan Ropeway. It is recommended to take the Ximatan Ropeway, it is the most expensive, but it is worth it, because you can reach the top of the mountain. Oxygen cylinders can be bought or not. The lush vegetation on the mountain has a high oxygen content and generally people does not have altitude sickness. Each scenic spot has a catering service area, there are rice noodles and other snacks, and they all taste good.

Special Note

1.Cangshan Mountain has a strong body and complicated mountain roads. It is recommended not to deviate from the Yudai Road when visiting, otherwise it is easy to get lost in the deep mountain. 2. Cangshan Mountain has a higher altitude and lower temperature in the morning and evening. In addition, due to the cold mountain wind, it is recommended to bring warm clothing when going up the mountain. 3. Some locals will provide the service of riding on Cangshan Mountain, but the comfort and safety factor are relatively low, it is recommended to try carefully.