According to the United Nations World Tourism Organization, sustainable tourism is defined as “tourism that takes full account of its current and future economic, social and environmental impacts, addressing the needs of visitors, the industry, the environment, and host communities.” Put simply, travel should preserve cultural and traditional values through authentic experiences, foster intercultural understanding, and provide long-term and fairly distributed socio-economic benefits, all while supporting the conservation of natural heritage and biodiversity.

Unfortunately, this is often easier said than done. Especially in China.

With an abundance of flashy (literally and figuratively) light shows that cause light pollution and disrupt the ecosystem, inauthentic and sanitized ‘old towns’, and cultural performances that feel about as genuine as a Broadway show, exploring parts of China can often feel as if you’re walking on an elaborate Hollywood set rather than getting a genuine taste of everyday life in the Middle Kingdom. But, it definitely does not have to be that way.

 

Dali Market. Image by Elizabeth Phung

 

The Tourism Industry Conundrum

Most people agree that travel can do wonders for a community and local economy. Jobs are created and financial resources are exchanged. A destination’s cultural, historical, and natural heritage can be celebrated and explored. And the authentic experiences shared by the locals and travelers can help to break down walls of misunderstanding.

However, it’s becoming an increasingly tough proposition to balance all those benefits while still preserving what made the experience beautiful to begin with. As any destination struggling from overtourism can attest to, and as pointed out by our founder, Mei Zhang,

“The travel industry itself is almost an enemy to the beauty of travel. Whenever any beautiful travel experience exists, when the industry moves in it’s like locusts coming to town and it wipes out the beauty of it.

So why is that? The travel industry always talks about volume, everything must have volume in order to make money — and yet the beauty of travel does not involve volume. It’s the opposite.”

In other words, not only can the mass of humanity all trying to enjoy the destination at once spoil the experience, but the temptation to monetize, standardize, scale up, or otherwise manufacture the experience for the sake of profit often results in the distortion of the culture or place overall. All authenticity goes out of the window.

So, how to solve the problem? The answer lies in creating in-depth, meaningful, and small-scale organic travel experiences.

 

Dali Landscape. Image by Elizabeth Phung

 

An Authentic Answer

Mei Zhang was pushing the notion of socially sustainable, authentic travel before AsiaTravel was even a twinkle in her eye. While working for McKinsey & Company as a consultant in the late ‘90s, Mei was part of a project tasked with developing environmentally responsible tourism models for The Nature Conservancy in Yunnan, her home province.

Her suggestion – a culturally sensitive approach that kept the province’s natural habitat and culture carefully preserved – was rebuffed by the local government as too difficult and too slow. Sadly, this wasn’t an isolated reaction. On top of the challenges of pulling off ‘profitable’ authentic travel, many local authorities failed to see the appeal of these sorts of travel experiences, viewing them as backward.

For this reason, in 2000, Mei took matters into her own hands and created AsiaTravel with the goal of connecting travelers from around the world with the disappearing traditions of China, one trip at a time.

 

A donkey in Dali. Image by Elizabeth Phung

 

Authentic Travel, AsiaTravel Style

So, what does authentic travel mean to AsiaTravel? For starters, it means stepping out from behind the ubiquitous flag that has come to represent tours throughout China. It means guiding travelers out of the well-worn footsteps of the tourist circuit.

Although a journey through the Middle Kingdom should, of course, include a visit to the typical must-sees, authentic travel is much more about helping travelers to see places through the eyes and stories of locals and experts (and, not-so-coincidentally, away from the usual crowds of people). It’s about helping the place to come alive in a way that it couldn’t if you were exploring these places on your own or on a mega-bus-tour.

 

Image by Elizabeth Phung

 

AsiaTravel forges a path to the hidden, more remote corners of the country. While not as grand as the Great Wall, as iconic as the pandas, or as sparkling as the Shanghai skyline, we believe that it’s these little pockets of humanity and nature that deserve to have their stories told just as much as their more well-known counterparts – if not more.

Creating authentic experiences is easier said than done, of course. Here at AsiaTravel, we’re able to find these pockets of humanity because we can leverage our nationwide network of guides, local partners, and China-based staff. This allows us to not only stay in-the-know with happenings like the opening of a new boutique hotel but also allows us to take advantage of personal relationships and insider knowledge to source authentic experiences for our clients.

So, that works for our guests. But, how do we make culturally sensitive sustainable travel a reality not just for our travelers, but also for the communities we visit?

 

Socially Sustainable Travel in a Modern World

Creating sustainable travel practices all comes back to the definition: travel should preserve cultural and traditional values through authentic experiences, foster intercultural understanding, and provide long-term and fairly distributed socio-economic benefits.

A perfect illustration of our efforts to preserve traditional ways of life and nurture intercultural understanding can be found in one of our flagship journeys: Travels Through Dali with a Leg of Ham, created by our very own founder Mei Zhang. The journey, which is inspired by Mei’s book of the same name, follows her return to her hometown (with a leg of Yunnan ham in hand) to rediscover the stories of her childhood through a wiser, more worldly lens.

Both the story and journey are an ode to her homeland – the history, traditions, people, and way of life – as well as an entreaty to travelers to not just go to a destination, but to follow it to its roots. The aim of the journey, and AsiaTravel’s fundamental approach to sustainable travel, revolves around getting to know the people of Dali as they are. Nothing breaks down cultural barriers nor fosters greater understanding than breaking bread or talking over tea with the people at the heart of the place. Imagine learning how to make cheese with a farmer in her home or watching a master ham maker lovingly prep a haunch with locally produced salt. What if you could chat about a pickle empire that has withstood the test of communism and time with an 83-year-old lady, before sitting down for a homecooked meal with an ayi?

 

Dali. Image by Dali Guide, Frank Shan

 

Our Dali guide, Frank Shan, believes that this is the right approach to travel. After his many years of guiding, he tells us that travelers find it ‘amazing’ to connect with the local people and love sharing in the cultural traditions. On top of that, hosts are always happy when the foreigners come to town for a chat.

As China’s younger generations leave the nest of their hometowns for the hustle, bustle, and money of the megacities, carrying on the stories of longstanding traditions through sustainable travel becomes ever more important. Hopefully, as job opportunities and tourism dollars find their way into these local villages, China’s youth will be persuaded to stay.

 

Sustainable Socio-Economic Benefits

The siren call of the tourism industry’s cash flow can often be hard to resist. Understandably so, when the arrival of tourist spending can contribute to the revitalization of an entire city.

Yet revitalization is a slippery slope, to which any party who has been pushed out of a community or seen years of history bulldozed in the name of gentrification can attest. An area’s character and heritage are often the first things to be cut or ‘refinished’ in the name of progress. Moreover, due to travelers often sticking to the well-worn confines of the tourist trail, these tourism benefits normally never trickle down to communities tucked away in remote parts of the country. This is yet another reason why it is so crucial to spend time off the beaten path and make a point of supporting local businesses.

Meeting all the goals of sustainable tourism becomes quite easy once the decision is made to invest in local businesses and visit communities in an authentic way. For instance, collaborating with small village communities ensures the preservation of the area’s heritage through championing the ‘realness’ of the untouched community while providing tourism revenue. Staying in local accommodations like boutique hotels and guesthouses, and visiting local craftsmen, artisans, and restaurants provides income sources while giving visitors yet another chance to experience the reality of daily life there.

Another way AsiaTravel works to support local economies is by providing consistent employment and competitive wages to more than 300 local guides, many of whom are members of an ethnic minority. They are experts in, and passionate advocates for, their home region’s cultures, history, and stories. This reliable influx of financial resources into households and communities through the employment of local guides and patronage of local businesses helps bolster often-struggling economies that don’t normally have access to valuable tourism dollars.

 

Tie-Dye Fabric in Dali. Image by Vincent Yang via Unsplash

 

Our approach seems to be working. To illustrate, let’s revisit a couple of our Travels Through Dali hosts: the cheesemaker has generated enough income hosting travelers and making shoes to fund a partial home renovation and new roof tiles. As for the pickle lady, not only is business booming, but all four of her children are carrying on the family’s pickle legacy, with her oldest son, once a government employee, leaving his job to oversee production. Therefore, while socially sustainable travel may not have the same sizeable instant financial gratification of the commercialized, follow-the-flag travel experiences offered elsewhere in China, it’s the slow and steady work that helps to preserve a way of life that has persisted for generations.

 

What Can You Do?

So, what can travelers do to ensure that their money is going where it’s most needed? It’s simple: think local. First, have a more authentic dining experience like grabbing a jianbing from the street food vendor on the corner, picking up locally grown produce from a busy market, or sitting down for a plate of lovingly made jiaozi at a family-run restaurant. Next, hunt for locally made crafts, art, and souvenirs in lieu of mass-produced knockoffs. Sure, that handwoven scarf or Bai-made batik fabric may cost a bit more money but opting for this sort of tangible memory gives necessary jobs to the local craftsmen and artists and helps to preserve authentic cultural heritage. Additionally, if you’re going to use a guide, choose one that is from the area to ensure maximum learning and financial benefits. Not only are you supporting the local economy, but you’re also getting an up-close-and-personal glimpse of daily life. Finally, try to spend as long as you are able in an area to help spread the resources around.

 

A local meal with an ayi. Image by Elizabeth Phung

 

How to Do It Yourself

Admittedly, experiences like this are difficult to coordinate without on-the-ground knowledge and connections like ours. However, if you choose to arrange your own travels without the assistance of an expert, we highly recommend that you spend time doing your due diligence to learn about the destination. And we don’t just mean a cursory web search – really make an effort to dig. What aspects of the history, culture, and natural heritage speak to you? Think outside the bucket list box, color outside the tourism lines. Then, put yourself in a situation once you arrive that can get you as close to the heart of those intriguing facets as possible, whether that is by connecting with an enterprising local for a walking tour or making chitchat with your neighbor in the restaurant at dinner. Offset a visit to a major landmark with a palate-cleansing stop by somewhere not in all the guidebooks. Leave space for travel serendipity and take time to truly connect with a place. When you open yourself up to possibilities and connect with people, you never know what kind of authentic experiences can fall into your lap. Locals are more than happy to share their culture, as long as you are willing to listen. And, whatever you do, just say no to the flag.

 

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Sustainable travel isn’t necessarily the easiest way to travel. But we’re trying to ensure that changes. China and her people are fascinating and beautiful as they are, so we will continue to do everything we can to promote and protect this authentic China.

With some careful research and planning, a healthy dose of curiosity, consciously creative decision making, and a bit of an appetite for adventure, anyone can experience the ‘real’ China. Traveling this way not only helps you to better understand another community, it also helps to preserve the importance of that community and way of life.

It’s a beautiful circle that we are proud to be a part of. We challenge you – potential AsiaTravel clients and solo travelers – to think past the safety of the tourist circuit and the easy money of the sanitized, manufactured ‘cultural’ experiences. Say ‘no’ to the canned inauthenticity of the old towns and light shows in exchange for hands-on experiences, conversations over meals in a local’s home, and snapshots of life in remote villages.

After all, it is these genuine human connections that make, and keep, travel beautiful.

When it comes to culturally sensitive, socially responsible travel, Robert Frost was definitely on to something: taking the road less traveled makes all the difference.

We hope you’ll join us on our journey.

All photos by AsiaTravel traveler Mar Pages

 

Whether you want to experience enlightenment, see awe-inspiring landscapes, or explore one of the tallest mountain ranges in the world, visiting Tibet has everything you need to help you check off bucket-list items. It’s fabled and mysterious presence has been calling travelers for eons, yet in spite of this, many people either show up unprepared or put off visiting altogether because it may seem a bit too difficult.

Well, let’s set the record straight. Traveling to Tibet can be very easy. We’ve debunked some of the most common myths to show you just how easy it is to have a fantastic time on the roof of the world.

 

Myth #1: It’s very difficult to get there

In reality, getting to Tibet is no more difficult than traveling to any other destination in China that isn’t Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, or Xi’an. In other words, anywhere that isn’t serviced by a direct and speedy bullet train. Sure, there are more permits required for non-Chinese citizens to enter Tibet, but none of that actually becomes much of a problem. To get into Tibet, all foreign visitors must travel with an approved agency (just like us!). So, when you book with an agency, all the daunting Tibet travel permits will be taken care of for you. Getting a permit is therefore just as simple as telling your agency that you want to travel to Tibet and they’ll make sure you have all the paperwork necessary. For those of you who plan on traveling to Tibet from outside of China, you must enter Tibet from Mainland China first.

As far as physically getting to Tibet, the country is more accessible than most people tend to believe. There are plenty of flights from Beijing, Shanghai, and Xi’an. Plus, for adventurous travelers looking to take the scenic route, the Qinghai-Tibet railway (which was once considered impossible to build for years) now offers an absolutely stunning ride.

 

Myth #2: You must travel with a group

Despite the fact that most people do travel in groups to Tibet, this is not an actual requirement. The actual requirement is that tours must be arranged through an approved agency; however, it makes no difference if the agency is providing a private tour for one person or a group tour for 15.

As with any decision, there are pros and cons for each style of travel. But, at the end of the day, whether you choose to travel by yourself or with a larger group comes down to your personal taste and how you’d like to experience Tibet. Although group tours allow you to share the cost of a private tour guide and bus, while also providing a bit of camaraderie, a private tour affords you the ability to move at your own pace, leaves space for spontaneity, and grants a more intimate experience with your local guide. The choice is all yours.

 

Myth #3: You can rush through Tibet in a few days 

Many forget that altitude sickness affects people regardless of their physical fitness. (AsiaTravel employees included – some of the folks at Beijing HQ can tell you how they mistakenly thought it wouldn’t happen to them and were unpleasantly surprised.)

Generally speaking, you’ll need to give yourself at least a couple of days to adapt to the altitude and just relax. We’re serious about that last part – it’s not wise to push yourself physically during this period. While it is possible to do Lhasa in two full days, the Potala Palace has over 500 stairs to climb, so save this iconic destination for your second day. If you’re the type that doesn’t want to waste any time, make the most of your stay by leisurely exploring the Jokhang Temple or Norbulingka on the first day instead.

We recommend you take life at the speed of Tibetans. They’re laidback people who try to make a good time of everything they do, with an emphasis on good. Spending the first few days simply wandering and experiencing the local way of life is equally as important (or we might even argue more important) as visiting jaw-dropping sites.

On top of that, with so much to see and do, it’s quite difficult to make the most of your time in Tibet in just a few days. 

 

Myth #4: Lhasa is the only place worth going to

 Since the capital is the most well-known part of Tibet (apart from Everest Base Camp), and has a variety of notable must-sees, we often hear that Lhasa is the only place worth exploring. But think about your own country or state: is the capital the only destination worthy of a visit? Probably not.

Although it requires more paperwork if you want to travel outside of Lhasa, this is also something that your agency (hello again!) will take care of behind the scenes for you. Cities, lakes, villages, mountains: there is so much to see outside of Lhasa that is just as beautiful and worth your time as the Potala Place and the Jokhang Temple. 

How does camping beneath the stars on the banks of Manasarovar Lake sound? What about taking a bath in natural hot springs amid the barren landscape of Tirthapuri? From Tibet’s Holy Lakes, to Mount Kailash, to Tsedang – the birthplace of Tibetan civilization – there is so much to see throughout Tibet that even with the need for additional permits, exploring the depths of Tibet outside the capital is definitely a must-do on our bucket lists. 

However, it is incredibly important to note that it’s quite difficult to visit temples outside of Lhasa if they’re not included in your pre-established itinerary. So keep this in mind when planning your trip, as changing your mind to go somewhere new mid-trip may not be possible.

 

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Now that we’ve put those myths to rest once and for all, we hope your desire to travel to one of the most beautiful and spiritual places on the planet has been rekindled.

Believe us, it’s worth it.

 

The history of tea is almost as long as the history of China itself. Given that the Middle Kingdom is one of the oldest civilizations in the world, that is no small statement. In fact, although the oldest known written records of the country’s history date to the ancient Shang Dynasty in 1250 BC, Chinese legend has it that tea’s story began much earlier. Over a thousand years earlier.  

A Tale of Tea

The story goes that Emperor Shen Nong – a legendary leader and renowned herbalist – was relaxing beneath a tree in what is now Yunnan province back in 2737 BC. While a nearby servant boiled drinking water to help soothe the emperor’s throat, a breeze blew a few leaves off the tree under which Shen Nong rested and landed in the pot. Rather than waste the water, he decided to taste the accidental infusion and was surprised to discover the brew was both delicious and refreshing. Following that fateful day, tea remained a largely regional phenomenon, filling the cups of Yunnan’s ethnic minorities as a medicinal tonic, until the 7th century when the sprawling network of the ancient Tea Horse Road delivered the leaves to Beijing, Tibet, and beyond. What followed can only be described as a love affair with tea that has not just persisted throughout the years, but veritably saturated China’s culture. 

Tea and hospitality go hand in hand in China

By Benjamin Chodroff – Licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 

RELATED READING: Yunnan Food according to Mei Zhang

While tea holds the distinguished honor of China’s national beverage, it is so much more than a beloved drink. Upon your first step into a Chinese home, a cup of tea is immediately offered. Often, the cup is filled only seven-tenths of the way full – not to leave room for any desired additions, but to save space for the friendship and affection that fills the other three-tenths. Tea is also often used in other aspects of daily life like medicine and cooking. What’s more, there are entire cultural traditions, ceremonies, and customs built around tea. 

From how the water is boiled and poured (first over the teapot to warm it and then into the pot to brew), to the way in which the tea should be enjoyed (take in the aroma of the tea by sniffing the fragrant cup first before tasting), each step in the process is carefully choreographed. Even the specialized utensils necessary in traditional tea-drinking contributed to the stimulation of China’s famous porcelain industry. However, nowhere can you find tea traditions and rituals as rich (both culturally and nutritionally) as those found in the homes of Yunnan’s ethnic minorities, the original tea drinkers. 

The second (sweet) cup in a traditional Bai Minority ‘Three Cups of Tea’ ceremony

RELATED READING: The Hidden Gems of China’s ‘Dalifornia’

The Tea of Life

In Dali, the indigenous Bai people honor their guests with the symbolic Three Cups of Tea ceremony, known as san dao cha, the roots of which can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty and the Tea Horse Road. The ceremony calls on the drinker to first smell, then taste, and finally drink a variety of three unique teas and encourages guests to reflect upon the rollercoaster of life. 

The bitter-tasting initial cup, called lei xiang cha or ‘thundering tea’, represents the hardships one faces in life. First, tea leaves are baked in a clay pot over a gentle fire. Once the tea’s fragrance fills the air, boiling water is poured into the pot, creating violent and loud bubbles that give the tea its name. Once the bubbling stops, the tea – an aromatic and incredibly concentrated infusion – is ready to drink. 

The second tea, symbolizing the happiness that comes from conquering life’s challenges, is blissfully sweet. Almost soup-like, the local tea is brewed with walnuts, brown sugar, and a regional blend of other ingredients (such as orange zest or a cow’s milk cheese called rushan). 

The third and final tea, known as hui wei cha or ‘lingering tea’, is a complex mélange of tastes and ingredients. Bitter, sweet, and spicy all at once, the flavors of this cup create a powerful aftertaste that lingers on the drinker’s tongue long after the last sip and signifies both the bitter and sweet memories that one is left with. 

Tibetan Butter Tea

By xmascarol – Licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 

RELATED READING: Where You Should Go in Tibet

Tea at 14,800 Feet

Over the mountains and onto the Tibetan Plateau, the region’s ethnic Tibetans take tea drinking to a level that borders on obsession. Downing up to 40 cups of the stuff each day, it’s this infatuation that quite literally served as a building block for the Tea Horse Road. After discovering it during the Tang Dynasty, Tibetans realized that the nutritional benefits created during pu’er tea’s aging and fermentation eased the deficiencies caused by their high-fat, dairy-based diet and the stress of living at high altitudes in extreme weather conditions. And so, demand for the beverage skyrocketed. However, no ordinary tea will do. Instead, Tibetans enjoy a pu’er tea-based drink (some would argue soup) known as bod ja or butter tea. The tea is boiled for a least an hour before ultimately being churned together with a dollop of yak butter and a handful of salt and finished with a sprinkle of roasted barley flour known as tsampa. No visit to a Tibetan home is without an offering of butter tea. Etiquette dictates that your tea bowl is never empty, and so each sip is followed by pouring the concoction back to the brim. 

For China, tea is much more than a beverage or a way to unwind at the end of a long day. It is a way of life – a vessel with which to view the world and honor centuries of tradition. For travelers to the Middle Kingdom, there is no better way to understand the vast array of cultures and deep history than through the unifying lens of tea. 

Join us on our upcoming journey, Traversing the Ancient Tea Horse Road with Jeff Fuchs, and explore the roots of not just tea, but the ethnic minority groups that call Yunnan home – with a cup of Tibetan butter tea in hand.  

 

 

While Helen of Troy was the face that launched a thousand ships, pu’er tea was the beverage that paved the ancient Tea Horse Road. Fifteen hundred years ago, pu’er was a humble tea that rarely left the confines of Yunnan. But, sometime around the 7th century, something changed.

The Origins of Pu’er

Some say that merchants first learned of the tea when the ancient Tibetan Kingdom of Tubo controlled much of what is now Yunnan. Others say it was the union of the Tang Dynasty’s Princess Wencheng and Tibetan King Songtsän Gampo that led to its introduction. One thing is certain: the leaves that were once being enjoyed only by the ethnic minority groups that tended to them had found their way into the cups of emperors in northern China and Tibetans on the Himalayan Plateau. Soon enough, the thirst for pu’er was so unquenchable that an entire network was developed to carry the leaves out of the province and over the mountains, trading bricks of tea for Tibetan warhorses, precious silver, and salt.

“Under a shade tree – tea mountain Pu’er, Yunnan, China” by BryonLippincott is licensed under CC BY-ND 2.0 

RELATED READING: The Top 5 Things You Need to Know about Pu’er Tea

The roots of pu’er can be found in southwestern Yunnan, near the subtropical Eden of Xishuangbanna. In the heart of the Tea Belt – an area that extends from Assam in India to northern Vietnam – the home of pu’er is no less than the crux of the species. Hidden high in the region’s misty mountains, ancient tea trees – some of which are over 1,200 years old – have been cultivated by hill minorities like the Dai and Aini for over a millennium. Using knowledge that has been passed down through generations, farmers trek through remote jungles to reach clandestine groves. There, they tend to both wild-growing and specifically planted trees before handpicking the large, soft leaves and beginning the painstaking production process which is closer to an art than a science.

Making a Mighty Brew

Named for the town that served as the collection and trading hub for the area’s tea mountains, pu’er has many related spellings (among them pu’er, pu-erh, pu erh, puerh, pu-er, pu er, and puer). Although the legendary tea is known by many names, there are just three criteria that must be met in order for a tea to be given the coveted title of pu’er. First, leaves must be picked from a broad-leaf tea tree (generally Camelia sinensis var. assamica, for all the tea connoisseurs out there). Second, like Champagne and its namesake region in France, production must occur in Yunnan. Finally, the leaves must be dried in the sun (not in an oven – that’s cheating). After being picked, the incredibly precise production process begins. Leaves are laid out to wilt for a few hours in the sun. Then, they are quickly fired in a wok over a gentle wood-burning fire to ‘kill the green’ (known as sha qing in Chinese) and stop oxidation. However, the farmers must watch the leaves carefully. Heating them too long takes away all moisture and kills the natural bacteria which are vital to the fermentation and aging of the pu’er. After the firing, leaves are rolled, shaped, and spread out to dry again in the Yunnan sunshine and initiate post-fermentation. It’s here in this last step where the magic alchemy of pu’er tea occurs.

 “Dry the tea” by Jeff Fuchs

RELATED READING: 4 Reasons to Visit Yunnan in Winter

The invention of pu’er as we know it today is something that can only be described as culinary magic, a result of happenstance and fluke conditions, which takes us back to the ancient trade network known as the Tea Horse Road. To accommodate the insatiable thirst for tea of Tibetans and the imperial class, caravans of merchants would compress the tea leaves into bricks, wrap them in bamboo, and then strap them to the backs of horses, mules, and other pack animals to make them easier to carry. Long distances and rough terrain meant that the tea could be traveling for months, or even years, before finally reaching its destination.

But, during the journey, something happened – the pu’er changed. In an act that can only be described as gastronomic serendipity, the tea’s exposure to sweat, the elements, and shifting climates not only changed its color from green to earthen teak, but the flavor became richer, smoother, and fruitier. Like a fine merlot, aging and a natural fermentation process while traveling caused the tea to evolve into something not only uniquely delicious but also medicinal and highly sought-after.

Pu’er Today

Over the years, the desire for pu’er mellowed somewhat, its drinkers largely confined to Yunnan. Until again, starting in the late 1990s, something happened. Investors from first-tier cities in China and then the rest of the world began streaming in. Tea that had once sold for pennies a kilo skyrocketed to hundreds of dollars by the mid-2000s. While the bubble burst temporarily in 2007 and sent prices plummeting, it is on the rise once more, with 350g discs aged 70 years ringing in at thousands of dollars, and there are no signs of stopping. Pu’er, once a humble tea of Yunnan, is again the Helen of Troy of tea.

“realchinatea (40 of 131).jpg” by mmoscosa is licensed under CC BY 2.0

RELATED READING: Peek into the Mind of Tea Horse Caravan Road Expert, Jeff Fuchs

In spite of the demand and the temptation to cut corners, Yunnan’s hill minorities carry on the tradition of pu’er set forth by their ancestors generations ago. Tending to the trees with the skill and dedication of a vigneron nurturing their vines, many farmers devote their whole lives to fashioning the perfect cup of tea.

To delve into the past and present of this precious commodity, contact us now to learn more about our upcoming journey back to pu’er’s roots with Jeff Fuchs and Traversing the Ancient Tea Horse Road. After hiking to the ancient tea tree forests, you’ll sit down with the descendants of the first tea cultivators for a pot of tea and a memory that is literally millennia in the making. We hope you’ll join us for a cup of tea.

As the capital of the Tibetan Autonomous Region, Lhasa sits high above the clouds, perched along the edge of the Himalayas. A city filled to the brim with culture and history, the sights are plentiful, not to mention the surrounding mountainous landscapes of epic proportions. With so much to see and do, where you choose to rest your weary traveler head at the end of the day does have its perks. Whether it’s rooftop panoramic views or a swanky oxygen bar, here’s the ultimate guide to the best hotels in Lhasa. 

St Regis Hotel

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For a night in the thick of it all, stay at the St Regis, located in the ancient Barkhor area of the city – home to Jokhang Temple and the authentic Lhasa. As a collection of rooms, villas, and suites, the St Regis exudes Chinese elegance in a tasteful and relaxing setting. After a day following in the footsteps of Buddhist pilgrims, retreat to the comforts of this hotel and indulge in one of the extravagant treatments at the Iridium Spa. Then, take a soak in the healing, warm waters of the sparkling Golden Energy Pool. With a focus on delivering the art and spirit of Tibet, you’ll be leaving this lofty destination with your head in the clouds and your body rejuvenated.

Songtsam Choski Linka

RELATED READING: Where Can I Visit Tibetan Buddhist Monks?

The homegrown Songtsam brand is the perfect choice to experience Tibetan culture, from the locally-spun thread of the rugs blanketing the floors to the native staff. Enjoying a parkside location, the Songtsam provides epic views over rugged mountains and the shimmering Potala Palace in the distance – the Potala View Deluxe Suite is a must! Boasting over 100 pieces of Tibetan and Chinese textile art, your cultural exploration of this fascinating region begins the moment you put your bags down. As part of a boutique collection of lodges, guests can be assured of an intimate stay that blends warm Tibetan hospitality with ultimate comfort. Songtsam has opened lodges throughout the region and into Yunnan, offering the perfect chance to explore the region at greater depth while staying in authentic accommodations. 

Shangri-La Lhasa

RELATED READING: Do I Need a Permit to Visit Tibet?

If a healthy dose of Chinese opulence in the lap of luxury is what you’re after, then look no further than the Shangri-La. As the inspiration for the brand, the fabled Shangri-La is a paradise for travelers high up in the Himalayas, where the tales from James Hilton’s ‘Lost Horizon’ leap off the page. Guests will find a copy of the book in every room – perfect for indulging in an inspirational chapter or two before bed. The Shangri-La remains faithful to its high standards with posh rooms and, for those not yet acclimatized, a 24-hour oxygen lounge. Finding itself between the Potala Palace to the east and the Summer Residence to the west, the hotel is perfectly situated to explore the best Lhasa has to offer. After a day of sightseeing, enjoy sundowners on the roof terrace with 200-degree views over the undulating landscape.

Four Points by Sheraton Lhasa

RELATED READING: Where You Should Go in Tibet

A convenient 10-minute stroll from Jokhang Temple, the Four Points lies in the east of the city and radiates peace and quiet. With its inviting, comfortably simple furnishings and renowned Sheraton service, this hotel delivers world-class hospitality to ensure only the most enjoyable of stays. After a long day exploring Lhasa’s treasures, guests can unwind in the Asian-style courtyard or retire up on the roof terrace. Or for something even more indulgent, a range of soothing treatments are on offer in the Bayemedo Massage Room. For the short of breath among you, oxygen facilities are provided upon request.

As part of our ‘Have You Eaten?’ series, we share our latest foodie-finds that showcase another unique culinary experience on offer in China. This week, we didn’t have to venture far, seizing the opportunity to try out Beijing’s exclusive Black Sesame Kitchen which is well known for using rich Chinese flavors as a lens to bridge culture. While its name has certainly caught traction within the city and beyond, its location is unpretentious which adds to the restaurant’s genuine charm – and contributes to our appetite in trying to find it! Tucked away among a throng of hutong alleyways, BSK is a mere stone’s throw away from the Forbidden City and boasts a traditional courtyard setting. What we really love about this restaurant, though, is its focus on sharing stories, from the narrative behind its creation to the tales shared by fellow diners at the communal meals – and, of course, the food’s pretty spectacular too.  

We caught up with the creative genius behind it all, Jen Lin-Liu. 

Jen Lin-Liu 

After several years working as a foreign journalist in China, American-born Jen Lin-Liu decided to change direction in her life, opting instead to follow her burning passion for food. In a country so obsessed with eating, traditional Chinese recipes, cooking methods, and even ingredients are jam-packed with cultural and historical references, creating a fascinating concept that Jen was keen to tap into. Not one to shy away from a challenge, Jen enrolled at a local cooking school and worked hard to not only understand the lectures from a linguistic point of view but follow the countless cultural nuances dropped throughout the classes. Her constantly-raised hand was an unusual sight among Chinese students and she took her instructor by surprise when he finally realized she was, in fact, American.

Black Sesame Kitchen at a glance through the windows

Returning home each day with a pocketful of new recipes and stories to match, Jen’s expat friends soon became engrossed in this culinary foray into Chinese culture. Jen recognized the importance of food as a lens into the multifaceted daily lives of Beijingers and ultimately made the decision to rent out a small hutong so that she could host lessons and cook dinners for her friends. Word of these evenings quickly spread throughout the expat community and attracted international visitors in the process. Food became a great way to interact with chefs, business people, and other locals in the community, helping to bridge the divide between how a visitor may experience China and what China is actually like on the ground. And so, Black Sesame Kitchen was born. 

Following on from her book, Serving the People, Black Sesame Kitchen became the physical manifestation of how food can be used to bring together a diverse group of people and create a fascinating environment that overcomes cultural divides. During the nightly communal dinners, guests take a seat in the open-plan kitchen-meets-dining room and share in this experience with a constantly changing group of people. You might be seated with another traveler, a Beijing local, an expat living away from home, or any number of other characters – all who bring a unique understanding of life in China.

Courtyard area at Black Sesame Kitchen 

In the elegant open setting that brings together chef and diner, ten delicious courses are served up, each boasting freshly sourced ingredients from local markets. With only one sitting per evening, the experience is intimate and the menu constantly evolves to match current tastes and seasons. Culinary inspiration is drawn from Jen’s book of classical and imperial Chinese cuisine and mixed up with Chef Zhang’s creative flair – the homemade black sesame ice cream with candied seasonal fruit is a definite must-try. Topped off with selected wines to match the dinner’s flavors, the overall experience makes for a relaxing and social evening of good food and new friends.  

Wining and Dining at Black Sesame Kitchen 

If you choose to visit during the day, you’ll discover the secrets of stir-frying and noodle making in Beijing’s back alleys. In addition to its communal dinners, BSK also hosts private cooking lessons on Wednesdays and Sundays which are packed with inspiring foodie stories and tips on how to stock your pantry with the right ingredients. We love how unique this experience can be made, with options such as free-flow champagne or a pre-dinner wine and dumpling demonstration hour.

Baozi, a type of steamed bun 

As a writer, Jen believes in how stories can shape and inspire other people and this could be no more apparent than at the communal table of Black Sesame Kitchen. With limited capacity and a successful reputation, be sure to book in advance! You wouldn’t want to miss out on this incredible culinary experience. 

 

As the month of Saka Dawa continues, the Buddhist practice of performing a kora has become increasingly common in this rugged western region. And with visitors to Tibet growing year by year, it has become both important and beneficial to travelers to have an understanding of Tibet’s sacred practices. Without much further ado, here is our specialized guide for everything you need to know about the kora.

The word kora is a transliteration from the Tibetan word kor, meaning circle. The added ‘a’ refers to the Latin ambulare (meaning ‘to walk’), giving an overall meaning of walking around something in a circle, or circumambulation. While the name may have a very practical meaning, its significance is closely linked to Buddhist practice and is sacred to Tibetan life. 

Back in the 6th century, it was very common for the Buddha to spend his time under a tree and, in time, this was where his disciples would come to revere to him. However, it was his disciple Ananda who brought up the question of where devotees would be able to pay their respects in the Buddha’s absence. The Buddha pointed to his usual tree and indicated that walking around it, mindful of the tree’s significance, would be the natural way to pay one’s respects. As time went by, monuments such as the dome-shaped stupas were erected containing relics from the Buddha himself. Much like trees, these stupas were solid structures, meaning worshippers could not enter inside, and the faithful took to walking around the stupas as if they were the Buddha’s favorite tree. So, the practice of circumambulation became a widespread Buddhist custom. 

While paying homage to the founder of Buddhism, the act of circling sacred sites is also said to earn religious merit and ensure a brighter future and closer relationship to the spiritual path. 

So, what does the actual practice of a kora involve, and where can it take place? 

The kora, which is sometimes referred to as a pilgrimage, involves circling any form of sacred site. It can be manmade, such are stupas, temples, and monasteries, or mighty natural sites like lakes and mountains – the infamous Mount Kailash is considered to be the most sacred of all.

During the kora, worshippers will be seen circling clockwise a predefined number of times (each site has a specific number of laps associated). In practice, Buddhists will recite prayers while counting mantras on their rosaries. The idea behind this is that it focuses the physical, verbal, and mental all at once, allowing time for spiritual reflection. Although most Tibetan Buddhists will be seen performing the kora by walking around the sacred site, the most devout will make their way around by fully prostrating, standing up, and repeating the actions from where their extended hands previously reached. An even more extreme version of this form of meditation is the horizontal prostration, where the practiser will make the slow progression in steps no larger than the width of their person.

For the best insight into this sacred practice, there are a select few sites dotted throughout Tibet which are considered to hold deep religious significance and, therefore, attract the largest number of worshippers. 

At the top of the list is Tsekhor Kora, a 3km circuit around the base of the hill upon which the red and white Potala Palace stands. As the residence of the Dalai Lama until 1959, the palace is seen as the center of Tibetan Buddhism and now holds the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is also a must-see while visiting Lhasa.    

Also in Lhasa, the Lingkhor Kora follows the outer boundary of Lhasa District and can take up to four hours to complete just one circuit. On this kora, Tibetan pilgrims can be seen spinning hand wheels and chanting Buddhist scriptures. 

Leaving the crowds of Lhasa behind, pilgrims head to Lake Namtso to circuit one of Tibet’s three holy lakes. While this kora can take between twenty to thirty days to complete, the breathtaking views of crystal-clear waters and snow-capped peaks might encourage you to do a second lap. 

And finally, the most popular kora of all is that which circles Mount Kailash, considered the holiest mountain in the world and of significance to four world religions. This circuit takes around three days to complete, with overnight stops being made at monasteries along the route. 

In a region where religion is so tightly woven into the fabric of Tibetan culture, travelers can’t help but acknowledge the importance of Buddhism. Witnessing and even taking part in a kora is a great way to experience Tibetan life.

To celebrate the announcement of another Tea Horse Road journey with Jeff Fuchs this November, we’re sharing one of our favorite posts of AsiaTravel Explorer and Expert Jeff Fuchs musing on the importance of the Ancient Tea Horse Caravan Road, and why we should all bump it up on our travel list.  

A rugged Jeff Fuchs stares down the lens | Photo by Jeff Fuchs

The Ancient Tea Horse Caravan Road has long held the attention of explorers and vagabonds alike for the fact that it represents one of the globe’s great and daunting adventures. It is a cultural odyssey as much as a physically demanding pathway that brought tea, salt, horses, and all manner of goods from the fringes of the old dynastical empires into and onto the Tibetan Plateau. Pre-dating the Silk Road, the Tea Horse Caravan Road and its meandering pathways through indigenous zones, ancient tea forests, and stunning geographies offer up a deeper look into the very historical fabric of southwest China, Tibet, and beyond.

Across snow passes and over some of the planet’s great waterways, the route takes in three dozen cultures and two dozen languages…all with their own histories with tea and the great trade route.

Tea figured greatly into this ‘highway through the sky’ as it was – and to some extent remains – one of the great panaceas and commodities of time. Tea was more a fuel and medicine to the ancient tribes and its safe transport was one of the great vitals of the trade world.

Yunnan tea farm | Photo by Jeff Fuchs

This AsiaTravel journey along the Ancient Tea Horse Caravan Road seeks to dig into and take the journey back to its roots. Authentic touches of exploration off the beaten path, serious tea-highs from some of the planet’s purest ancient tree teas, and homestays that are entirely integral with delving deeper into a culture and land are on offer. Walking through some of the oldest tea forests on the planet, and then sampling them in a cup bind the leaf to its drinker and, by extension, to any that partake in a cup.

The journey from field to cup begins | Photo by Jeff Fuchs

We’ve enhanced sections to take you deeper still into Yunnan’s diversity and created more of a full-on adventure with daily tea samplings, from fresh bitter harvests to locally prepared specialties (including the Tibetan’s famed and pungent butter tea) from local regions.

I’m delighted that this journey has continued and been intensified to add a more authentic feel that reflects life and travel upon the Tea Horse Caravan Road. In traveling upon this most ancient of trade routes, it is important to retain some of the original feel of travel, life, and interaction for our guests.

It is vital that such a journey keep its vitality and spontaneity. It is only through this kind of travel and attention to detail that a route’s history, legend, and truths can remain intact.

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If Jeff’s descriptions of tea got your heart beating a little faster, check out the itinerary for Jeff’s “Asia Revealed” trip here. If you want to read more about Jeff and his travels, check out his blog here.  And if you have any questions, shoot us an email at info@wildchina.com

Original posted 

“吃了吗” (chī le ma), so goes the ancient Chinese greeting. Literally meaning “Have you eaten?”, “吃了吗?” is actually used to ask how someone is, the implication being that someone who has eaten must be doing well (of course!). While the saying may have lost its intention in everyday language, the greeting is a clear reflection of China’s fixation with food – and the inspiration behind our latest series: Have You Eaten?

Boasting an impressive eight cuisines across its many distinct regions, the Middle Kingdom is bursting with culinary diversity, causing both confusion and friction when it comes to dinner time. Luckily for you, we’ve put in the legwork to bring you a series of standout restaurants that have made it onto our very own list of favorites. Delving headfirst into the gastronomic narrative, here is the story of RED BOWL.

The latest addition to elegant Rosewood Beijing, RED BOWL offers a one-of-a-kind hot pot experience in the heart of the capital. But first things first, what is Chinese hot pot?

Hotpot at RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

A firm favorite throughout the nation, hot pot traces its history back to times of barbaric rule over a millennium and a half ago. Upon setting up camp for the evening, voyaging Mongol horsemen would use the heat from the fire to simmer soup in their helmets and sear meat upon their shields, making for a comforting and replenishing meal. Spreading throughout Northern China, this process was adapted by dipping vegetables and seafood into a flavorsome broth to cook. Thankfully, helmets were soon swapped out for metal pots – much more sanitary! With a communal pot in the middle of the table, this method of cooking is regarded as a sociable experience and adds an element of fun with its DIY aspect.

A selection of premium-quality meats at RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

As the craze spread, so did creativity. Stretching from the East China Sea to the mountains of Sichuan, hot pots have been adapted and constantly reinvented to reflect the flavors and ingredients of the local region. For example, a visit to Chongqing will see diners burning their lips on the area’s famed pepper-laden broth. Indeed, hot pots embody the diversity of Chinese cuisine, which bring us back to the dilemma of choice…

That’s where RED BOWL comes in. With the admirable goal of creating a world-class experience that appeals to everyone, they’ve reinvigorated the traditional hotpot without sacrificing any of its raw authenticity. But with more hotpot jaunts than you can shake a stick, what is it about RED BOWL’s story that has got us so hooked?

1. They make hotpot accessible for all tastes and styles.

Unlike other restaurants that focus on a specific cuisine with one variety of broth, RED BOWL offers six options, each as lip-smackingly tasty as the next. Pair this with an extensive range of dipping sauces and you have an unapparelled hot pot experience. Don’t worry though, the RED BOWL staff are experts when it comes to pairing the broth to the perfect sauce. Scared of spice? Not a problem. RED BOWL has three spice-free flavors.

Green Pepper Stock at RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

2. They make hot pot chic and fun.

While nothing makes up for poor flavor, we’re firm believers that dining is a multisensory experience and always find ourselves drawn to restaurants that offer both delicious food and great atmosphere. From the second you walk into RED BOWL, the vibe is chic and classy without feeling stuffy. Set upon a backdrop of graffiti-clad walls and smooth hip hop, the space reflects today’s China with its fusion of modernity and tradition. For a spot of fun, take a peek at the cocktail menu. While a slightly unusual pairing for hot pot, these cocktails have been carefully crafted to complement the dishes. Be sure to try the spicy Hot Monkey Vespa which pairs perfectly with the heat of the food.

The chic interiors of RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

3. They use phenomenal ingredients.

Impressively, an abundance of choices doesn’t hamper the quality, with broths that are left bubbling overnight to intensify the flavors and ingredients that are hand selected by Chef de Cuisine Zhu Qing. As well as locally sourced ingredients, RED BOWL makes a bold statement with imported Australian Wagyu Beef and Inner Mongolian Lamb Leg Roll. Plus, with a focus on nothing but the crème de la crème, the scallops are massive and delicious and the fish cheese ball is to die for. Then, guests can wash it all down with inventive takes on classic cocktails to round off their dining experience in style.    

A platter of seafood at RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

The Gin and Tonic at RED BOWL | Picture by Rosewood Beijing

We can’t wait to go back.

Featured Picture by Pete on Flick

There has been an ocean of ink spilled on the topic of understanding China stemming all the way back to the time of Marco Polo, who some say was the first to really expand the West’s awareness of East Asia. If you’re a reader looking for suggestions to help you better understand one of the most populous, influential countries in the world, look no further than this list of four books to expand your understanding of the Middle Kingdom.

Chinese Lessons: Five Classmates and the Story of the New China

By John Pomfret

This selection is a memoir written from the author’s perspective about the events and experiences that took place while he attended Nanjing University in Beijing during the 1980s. A participant in one of the first student exchange programs between the US and China, Pomfret focuses on the opening of China during the time of Deng Xiaoping’s reforms. It has been praised as an unvarnished, honest, and riveting read that is also popular among ethnic Chinese communities living in America.

Picture by USC Annenberg

It will help you better understand the roots of modern China, how the system works, and the perspectives of the people who live there. As the title implies, it follows five of his classmates, and you will learn how they view their situation, the future they saw for China, and their struggles.

You will enjoy this read if you want to understand the roots of China’s modern economic system, as well as how citizens view their economic and political system.

The Last Days of Old Beijing

By Michael Meyer

Michael Meyer paints an immersive, intimate picture of Beijing from the perspective of one of its oldest neighborhoods as it faces impending demolition at the altar of progress. As the description aptly puts it:

Soon we will be able to say about old Beijing that what emperors, warlords, Japanese invaders, and Communist planners couldn’t eradicate, the market economy has.

Picture by Michael Meyer

The book interweaves stories from the late 2000s with historical events spread across the past millennium. This may be the novel for you if you are planning on visiting China and would like to understand what the capital city used to be and what has become of some of the cultural artifacts as the incessant march of economic advancement continues.

Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China

By Jen Lin-Liu

If you’re interested in the vast history and variety behind Chinese cuisine, consider this engaging story that follows the author, Chinese-American Jen Lin-Liu, as she begins studying at a local cooking school without so much as a heater or even a measuring cup and works her way up through street food stands and, eventually, even upper-class Shanghai restaurants. Through her story, she demonstrates that after decades of turmoil and deprivation, the middle class yearned for comfort and luxury.

Picture by LumDimSum

Taking place in the early 2000s during an explosion in new cuisine and experimentation in the cooking scene, the author is able to get behind the local people’s defenses. As Lin-Liu does not clearly look like a foreigner, she is allowed the unique perspective of an American while getting to hear the true feelings of the people she engages with. The book is written in a witty, warm, and endearing fashion that is perfect for anyone who is looking for a close-up perspective of China.

Country Driving

By Peter Hessler

This book is the final in an award-winning trilogy written by the then-New York Times correspondent in China. In 2001, he earned the right to drive in China and spent years – years! – and over 7,000 miles driving around the country’s different regions, following the Great Wall and into the Tibetan Plateau, to see just how the development of the country’s infrastructure affected the people who live there.

Picture by thebeijinger

If you want a fairly in-depth exploration of what it is like to live and travel within China – complete with many of the small, random, “what the heck was that” experiences that can come with life in China as an expat – then this is the book for you. Hessler rents houses in villages, follows one family’s gradual rise to political and financial success, drives the length of the Great Wall, and visits artist communities. This barely scratches the surface of the scope of this book but gives you some idea of the quirky, nitty-gritty world that the author successfully draws the audience into.

All of these books are worth visiting, each showing you a different perspective of China. If you want something from when the country was just opening up, a selection that explores the food side of a cuisine-obsessed culture, or an almost decade-long exploration of the country – they’re all there for you. Whenever you finish any of them, we’d love to hear what you think. Do you feel these stories still apply to modern day China? How do you think things may have changed?